HomeClimbingFirst Blood

First Blood Trad Climb at Nicolum Knob

Hope, Canada
hand crack
trad
single pitch
easy approach
morning light
modest protection
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
First Blood
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"First Blood offers a clean, focused trad climb on a thin hand crack at Nicolum Knob. Its straightforward pitch invites climbers to practice steady placements and deliberate moves amid the quiet forested backdrop of British Columbia’s Fraser Valley."

First Blood Trad Climb at Nicolum Knob

First Blood offers a straightforward, engaging traditional climb on a clear, inviting hand crack at Nicolum Knob in British Columbia’s Fraser Valley. Positioned between the slightly more challenging Dead Soles and the Kyle Hudie Route, this climb serves as an excellent introduction to the rock’s character here. The crack itself stands out with a thin, sharply defined flake that demands steady hand jams and careful footwork over its 25-meter length. As you ascend, the texture of the rock shifts subtly beneath your fingers, with occasional rough patches that provide just enough friction to keep confidence high without demanding maximum effort.

The route’s simplicity is a welcome invitation for climbers who prefer to focus on solid crack climbing fundamentals while soaking in the crisp mountain air and distant views that creep into the Fraser Valley. Beyond the physical, the experience calls for mindfulness—tracking your gear placements carefully, as protection ranges only up to hand size (1.5 inches), requiring cautious selection and thoughtful placement of cams to stay secure.

Once you reach the anchor, a solid rappel station awaits, marking a natural stopping point. For those with the stamina and comfort to continue, a short traverse left leads onto a slab with a bolt, connecting you to the Dead Soles anchor an additional 31 meters away. This extension offers a nice way to extend the adventure, though it veers into slightly more technical terrain.

Access to the climb is straightforward from the established trails of Nicolum Knob, with moderate approach terrain that takes roughly 20 minutes from forested parking areas. The setting is quiet but alive—the surrounding pines sway softly as small birds call overhead, creating an ambient soundtrack that complements the tangible focus of the climb. The rock here captures the morning light beautifully, making early starts optimal for a chill ascent free from the afternoon heat.

If you’re packing for First Blood, gear up with a standard rack capped at 1.5 inches, and bring climbing shoes focused on crack sensitivity. Hydrate well before starting, especially on warmer days, and plan for a swift descent by rappel. This route is best tackled in stable, dry weather; moss or dampness can increase slipperiness on the shared slab section, particularly if you choose to extend to Dead Soles.

First Blood is a climb that balances approachability with skill refinement, ideal for trad climbers aiming to sharpen hand crack techniques while enjoying an unpretentious, focused route in BC’s inviting Fraser Valley. Whether you choose to stop at the initial anchor or push on to link climbs, the experience is grounded in practical movement and the quiet thrill of trusting your gear and instincts on solid rock.

Climber Safety

Protection is limited to hand-sized cams with few fixed bolts; climbers should place gear meticulously to avoid long runouts. The slab area left of the anchor can become slippery when damp, so avoid climbing after rain or in wet conditions. Descent is by rappel from a robust anchor—double-check your setup before lowering.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to enjoy cooler temperatures and crisp morning light on the rock.

Focus on steady hand jams and smooth foot placements to maintain control on the thin flake.

Keep your rack light but include cams up to 1.5 inches for the key placements.

Check weather and avoid damp conditions that can make the slab section slippery, especially if extending to Dead Soles.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:At 5.6, First Blood is comfortably within beginner-friendly territory while rewarding attention to solid crack climbing technique. The grade feels just right—neither overly stiff nor soft—with an emphasis on controlled gear placement and steady movement. Compared to other local routes like Dead Soles (slightly harder), it offers a balanced challenge for those refining hand crack skills.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack equipped with cams sized up to 1.5 inches, perfect for the hand crack's placements. Protection opportunities are straightforward but require attention to placement quality.

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Tags

hand crack
trad
single pitch
easy approach
morning light
modest protection