"Finger Crack in Turkey Rock offers a compact, hands-on trad climb with a physical offwidth finish that demands a #6 Camalot. Its gritty holds and straightforward approach make it a solid choice for climbers looking to rehearse crack technique on a short but uncompromising route."
Finger Crack stands as a concise yet demanding trad climb carved into the rugged walls of Turkey Rock in the South Platte region of Colorado. From the moment you step into the approach gully, the route demands attention – making a careful, slightly insecure move to reach the left of the two cracks defines the entry. True to its name, the crack itself favors tight hand jams with only occasional finger-sized placements, forcing climbers into a tactile dance of body positioning and grip. As the crack fades, the route opens into a welcoming wide chimney on the left, providing a physical but manageable transition to a comfortable ledge perched atop the slot canyon.
While Haas’s guidebook records Finger Crack as a single-pitch climb, many opt to break it into two distinct sections, belaying from the ledge before tackling the final, short offwidth – arguably the crux of the climb. This challenging offwidth demands a #6 Camalot and physical commitment, testing both mental and technical stamina. There's an alternative finish on the right offwidth, similarly rated at 5.8 and requiring a #6 Camalot, though it remains less frequently ascended.
The rock here speaks of age and exposure, coated in dirt and lichen that can snag on gear and skin alike; climbers are advised to consider safety glasses to shield their eyes from unexpected debris. Descending Finger Crack follows a straightforward walk-off to the east, easing into a northbound scramble across talus when the terrain smooths out. This quick exit route caps an experience that balances accessible technical climbing with some gritty, natural challenges.
Turkey Rock is a slice of Colorado climbing that feels personal—quiet, steeped in rugged character, and raw in its presentation. For those looking to sharpen their crack skills without committing to multi-pitch routes, Finger Crack delivers in a brief but complete package. Prepare well: your rack should include the full range up to a #6 Camalot for the offwidth finish, but no need to double up, as reports suggest that a single is sufficient when managing the belay efficiently.
This climb’s place in the South Platte climbing landscape is modest but meaningful. It’s not a polished sport route, but a straightforward trad test that invites focused technique and solid protection choices. The approach approach from the Turkey Rocks parking area is short but involves some bushwhacking and uneven footing, reinforcing the sense that this climb is earned, not given. Early morning or late afternoon is the best time to climb here to avoid the full sun exposure, especially in warmer months. Whether you’re brushing off winter cobwebs or pushing into spring climbing, Finger Crack offers a genuine taste of Colorado’s enduring crack climbing tradition, with a pinch of dirt and the satisfaction of climbing earned on your own terms.
The route’s dirt and lichen can shed unexpectedly, making the face slightly slick and irritating to the eyes—protective eyewear is strongly advised. The offwidth crux requires well-placed gear; avoid rushing placements to maintain a safe ascent. The descent features loose scree and uneven terrain—use caution when scrambling down.
Wear safety glasses to protect from loose dirt and lichen shedding during the climb.
Set your belay on the comfortable ledge before the offwidth crux to manage your #6 Camalot efficiently.
Approach involves some bushwhacking and uneven footing; sturdy shoes and careful footing are recommended.
Climb early or late in the day for better temperature control and reduced sun exposure on the south-facing wall.
A full trad rack up to a single #6 Camalot is essential, especially for the final offwidth segment. One #6 Camalot typically suffices; a second is more of a backup if you need to set a belay midway. Standard cams and protection for hand and finger cracks will also be needed.
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