"Far Right Corner offers an 80-foot trad climb up a rugged corner system along the Zappa Wall in Escalante Canyon. A moderate 5.9 route, it combines finger crack protection with exposed ledges and a steady climb that rewards attentiveness and solid gear placements."
Far Right Corner delivers a straightforward yet engaging trad climbing experience along the Zappa Wall’s rugged escarpment in Escalante Canyon, tucked within Colorado’s Grand Junction area. This single-pitch, 80-foot ascent guides you up a well-defined corner system peppered with parallel cracks that lead steadily toward the summit, promising a scramble that challenges both your skills and your focus.
The approach to the climb begins on uneven ledges marked by loose debris, a reminder to move deliberately from the outset. Once you gain the dihedral—an inviting groove that leans into the rock face—the route demands precise gear placements, especially around small cams, to secure your progress. The wall itself wears a rough, textured surface that grits beneath your fingertips and boots, grounding the climb with a tangible connection to the earth.
Visually, the corner presents as a natural groove offering pockets of protection but also warning signs of occasional loose rock. The pillar on the far right side of the Zappa Wall is your landmark, representing the climb’s edge and the gateway to the route’s challenges. As you ascend, the cracks running parallel in the dihedral beckon careful hand and foot placement, rewarding patient climbers with smooth transitions.
For those preparing for Far Right Corner, finger-sized protection up to 2 inches is essential, helping to anchor your safety in a series of placements that require constant attention. The route’s 5.9 grade signals a moderate challenge—accessible for climbers comfortable with gear placements and crack climbing techniques—but the presence of loose rock calls for vigilance, especially near the base.
The area pulses with a quiet, steady pulse—winds whisper through the canyon, and the sun’s trajectory deposits shifting light across the wall’s face. Early mornings or late afternoons are ideal for climbing here, as the sun moves to soften the heat while illuminating the rock’s natural features.
This route sits within a broader high desert environment that offers expansive views of the canyon’s geological contours. Its relative remoteness means you can expect a peaceful ascent, with the occasional call of birds or the rustle of a passing breeze punctuating the silence.
Approaching the climb involves navigating rugged terrain with moderate bushwhacking, so sturdy footwear, ample hydration, and layered clothing are recommended to adjust to sudden temperature changes. Though the climb is short, don’t underestimate the importance of steady focus and cautious movement.
Descending is straightforward—once at the top, a short walk off to the left leads back to more stable ground. No technical rappel is required, but remain watchful of loose stones on the descent to maintain safety.
Far Right Corner offers a compact, technical trad outing that fits perfectly for those seeking to stretch their crack climbing skills in a setting framed by Colorado’s canyon wilderness. While the route is brief, its combination of loose ledges, protective challenges, and vivid canyon ambiance makes it an ideal choice for climbers ready to engage directly with the rock’s raw character.
Loose debris near the base and ledges requires cautious movement and thorough testing of holds. Protection opportunities depend on well-placed finger-sized gear, so frequent gear checks and slow climbing are advised. Avoid climbing after heavy rain or freeze-thaw cycles to reduce rockfall risk.
Approach early in the day to avoid midday heat on exposed ledges.
Wear sturdy shoes with good grip to handle loose rock near the start.
Carry a small rack focusing on finger to 2-inch cams for protection.
Stay alert for loose material on ledges; test all holds carefully.
Finger-sized protection up to 2 inches is needed throughout the climb, especially useful for small cams placed securely in parallel cracks. The route has limited fixed gear and relies heavily on careful gear placements.
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