Falcor: Lean into the Challenge of Centre Stage’s Roofed Face

Kelowna, British Columbia Canada
sport climb
crux
technical face
permadraws
single pitch
sharp edges
left leg knee pad
Length: 394 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Falcor
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Falcor challenges climbers with a steep, technical face line in KLO Creek’s Centre Stage sector. Featuring a tricky crux on slopey holds and a well-protected 120-foot pitch, it offers a demanding yet rewarding test for sport climbers ready to sharpen their skills."

Falcor: Lean into the Challenge of Centre Stage’s Roofed Face

Falcor stands out on the dramatic wall of Centre Stage within The Amphitheater at KLO Creek, BC, a sport climb that demands precision and perseverance on a 120-foot face packed with technical moves. This single-pitch line kicks off with a series of dynamic, engaging face moves that draw climbers into the rhythm of the rock. Approaching the midpoint, you'll encounter a distinctive limestone-like band marking a subtle shift—here, the bolted protection yields to permanent quickdraws, signaling the climb’s climbing style evolves into a test of finger strength and body positioning.

Opting for the left fork leads you onto Falcor itself, a route that challenges with its steep, downward-angled holds that tease your balance and finger control. This section traps many climbers in its deceptive complexity: either baffled by the slopey holds or rewarded for deciphering the crux's nuances. Midway through, you will clip a critical permanent quickdraw before surmounting a small boulder problem that opens into more manageable terrain toward the anchor.

The climb demands attention to gear and preparation. With 10 bolts and a cluster of permanent draws firmly anchoring your ascent, the route is well-protected but calls for an 80-meter rope to avoid tricky scenarios during descent; shorter ropes will leave you scrambling. A stuck locking biner at the chains means bringing extra hardware to thread your rope safely. Taller climbers may find some moves awkward, and many locals favor a knee pad on the left leg to cushion against the sharp edges encountered mid-route.

Falcor's setting in KLO Creek offers more than just climbing: the environment hums with the quiet energy of British Columbia's interior, where sunlight glances off the rock and faint forest scents mingle with mountain air. The Amphitheater’s broad exposure invites sweeping views, encouraging climbers to pause and absorb the wild energy flowing through this climbing zone.

Whether you’re ticking off a project at the 5.12a grade or honing your technique on steep vertical terrain, Falcor embodies a compelling blend of physical challenge and thoughtful gear management. Don’t underestimate the route’s crux—it’s a puzzle wrapped in a bold pitch that rewards those who commit. Pack smart, stay focused, and prepare for a climb that tests your climbing intellect as much as your strength.

Climber Safety

The chains at the anchor have a stuck locking biner, so bring extra hardware for threading your rope safely. Also, the route requires an 80-meter rope—shorter ropes make the descent complicated or risky. Pay attention on the crux as sharp holds can cause injury without control.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length394 feet

Local Tips

Bring an 80-meter rope to avoid tricky rope shenanigans on the rappel.

A knee pad on your left leg can help on sharp edges mid-route.

Tall climbers should be ready for some challenging body positioning.

Plan for the crux near mid-height where slopey, downward holds test your grip.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.12a, Falcor feels solid in difficulty with a stiff crux that separates the confident from the confused. The slopey holds near the mid-section demand precise reading and body tension, making the grade feel appropriately challenging but fair. Compared to other Centre Stage climbs, it’s a sharp technical test rather than an endurance endurance challenge.

Gear Requirements

Falcor is bolted with 10 fixed bolts and several permanent quickdraws. A two-bolt anchor with chains and a rap ring completes the protection. Use an 80-meter rope to ensure a smooth return; shorter ropes risk complications. A stuck locking biner at the anchor suggests bringing additional material for rope threading.

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Tags

sport climb
crux
technical face
permadraws
single pitch
sharp edges
left leg knee pad