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Failed Exorcism Arch - The Power of Christ Compels You

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
chimney
desert sandstone
exposed
multi-pitch
crack climbing
aid climbing
hand jams
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad | Aid
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Failed Exorcism Arch - The Power of Christ Compels You
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A compelling four-pitch Trad and Aid climb perched in McInnis Canyons, this route blends exposed chimneys and delicate crack systems with a raw desert backdrop. Ideal for climbers seeking both mental grit and technical challenge away from the crowds."

Failed Exorcism Arch - The Power of Christ Compels You

At the edge of McInnis Canyons, just beyond the well-trodden routes of the Grand Junction area, the imposing spire known as Failed Exorcism Arch rises with an unnerving presence. This four-pitch Trad and Aid climb grabs your attention with its precarious features and the eerie silence of its remote location. The route threads through tight chimneys and hollow flaking rock, demanding steady nerves and meticulous footwork against desert sandstone that dares you to trust every hold.

Starting off, you climb a wide-open hand crack that narrows into a chimney – a space where your body presses into the walls, each movement a careful negotiation. The first pitch leads to a belay perched at the arch’s base, offering a rare moment to catch your breath while the expanse of Devil’s Canyon sprawls below, sun warming the exposed sandstone. Moving up, the second pitch tests your judgment as you ascend a delicate, Jenga-like stack of unstable rock. One wrong move here could bring down unstable blocks, adding a thriller’s edge to the climb.

The third pitch requires you to stem through a sandy chimney to reach the sub-summit. Protection is scarce and the rock’s gritty texture provides both grip and unpredictability. The void below feels alive — almost as if the canyon breathes beneath your feet, eager and relentless. The final pitch stretches across a slim crack system, demanding dynamic, committed moves. There’s a tense moment where you reach for a small pod to sling, then place two hand-sized angles before launching yourself to the summit. Victory at the top feels raw and earned.

Descend by a single double rope rappel off two solid bolts—a clean and efficient exit after the route’s measured exposure. The climb rewards those prepared with a standard desert rack plus a couple of small angles for hand placements. Given the route’s loose sections and technical demands, careful protection selection and slow, deliberate movement are your best allies.

Failed Exorcism Arch stands apart in the McInnis Canyons collection, promising an adventure that challenges both your climbing skill and mental focus. It offers a taste of solitude without sacrificing the thrill of wild, unpolished rock. Climbers looking for a route that pushes comfort zones while revealing quiet canyon views will find this an unforgettable experience.

Before heading out, be sure your gear is in top condition and your approach timing beats the midday heat. The route’s desert location means early starts and thorough hydration are key, while sturdy, sticky shoes will help you handle the sandstone’s varied texture. Expect desert winds to accentuate the climb’s atmosphere; respect the rock and gravity here, and it will reward you with an ascent that lingers long after you’ve returned to the trailhead.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the second pitch’s blocky Jenga stack—unstable rock here can dislodge unexpectedly. Maintain three points of contact and avoid pulling on loose stone. The sandy chimney sections offer limited protection, so rope management and belay vigilance are critical. Rappel only off the two solid bolts to avoid uncertain anchors.

Route Details

TypeTrad | Aid
Pitches4
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Begin the climb early to avoid the desert heat and maximize grip on cooler rock.

Bring plenty of water—there’s no natural source near the approach or route.

Wear sticky desert climbing shoes for both crack jams and delicate edge holds.

Double-check your protection placements in unstable rock to prevent accidents.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 C1
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 C1, this climb balances moderate technical moves with a few aid sections requiring precise footwork and careful gear placements. The aid pitches add complexity, with a crux at the Jenga-like stack where security feels tentative. While the 5.9 rating is approachable for experienced climbers, the route’s exposure and loose rock bump up the mental demands compared to nearby Grand Junction classics.

Gear Requirements

A standard desert rack is essential, complemented by two small angles for critical hand placements. Expect to use finger-sized gear for chimney belays and carefully select pro to secure the more fragile rock features.

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Tags

chimney
desert sandstone
exposed
multi-pitch
crack climbing
aid climbing
hand jams