"A fledgling 5.12a single-pitch sport and top-rope route on Paint Mountain, this wall demands precise technique and offers climbers an opportunity to contribute beta to an evolving line. Ideal for those eager to push Yosemite-level moves against a northern wilderness backdrop."
The face to the left of Sweet Louise on Paint Mountain offers a focused and ambitious challenge for climbers looking to push their limits on sport and top-rope terrain in the rugged Yukon Territory. This single-pitch route, currently a work in progress, invites a sense of exploration as its holds and sequences remain open for interpretation, making it an appealing canvas for those craving a bold test of skill on 5.12a terrain. The rock here is sharp and textured, demanding precise footwork and confident movement, while the bolted anchor provides a reliable endpoint to this compact but demanding ascent. Set against the raw northern backdrop of Haines Junction, the wall catches light that reveals every crimp and edge, amplifying the climber’s connection to the stone.
Approaching Paint Mountain, the environment shifts to a quiet wilderness area marked by cool breeze whispers and distant birdcalls, enhancing the sense of solitude. The climb sits on Orange Corner, a sector known for its granite faces that beckon climbers to forge their own paths where nature and personal grit intersect. Although the route’s length isn’t extensive, the intensity of the moves compresses the effort, making each reach and placement count. With just a single anchor bolt protecting the finish, placement confidence and clean execution become vital.
Gear-wise, expect to rely mainly on sport climbing draws and a solid rope to manage the top-rope conditions or lead safely. The route stands out for those willing to experiment with sequences—if you’ve climbed the line unweighted on top-rope, your feedback could help shape this emerging route's future narrative. While the approach is straightforward, climbers should be prepared for typical northern weather shifts and bring appropriate layers, hydration, and sturdy shoes suited for sharp granite.
Enjoy the unhurried atmosphere of Paint Mountain—where quiet focus meets the thrill of a hard climb worth testing again and again. It’s not just about reaching the top; it’s about committing to the subtle challenges the rock offers and knowing when to push forward or pause to gauge the next move. For those ready to explore and contribute to a rising line, this face offers that rare combination of raw potential and immediate physical engagement.
The route relies on a single bolted anchor; double-check your anchor setup before committing. The granite can be jagged in spots, so careful foot placement and controlled clipping are essential. Watch for variable weather conditions that can make the rock slick.
Be prepared for sharp granite — durable climbing shoes are essential.
Weather in the Yukon can turn quickly; carry layered clothing and enough water.
If you've TR climbed the route without weighting the rope, climber input on sequences is welcome.
Approach Paint Mountain early to enjoy calm winds and steady sunlight for better rock friction.
Bolted anchor at the top secures the route, making it suitable for sport and top-rope climbing. Bring a standard set of draws and a dynamic rope for lead or TR setups.
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