"Eyes Full of Ghosts presents a direct and thrilling ascent up Donut Buttress in Rocky Mountain National Park, weaving delicate corner jams, roof mantles, and sustained face climbing over three pitches. This alpine trad classic challenges climbers with technical moves and a PG-13 protection feel, rewarding precision and steady nerves."
Eyes Full of Ghosts carves a bold path straight up the heart of Donut Buttress within Rocky Mountain National Park, offering climbers a blend of alpine grit and technical challenge over three hefty pitches. This route rewards those who seek solid, varied climbing on well-featured rock, threading through left-facing dihedrals and sharp corners while supplying enough exposure to ignite a steady pulse. Approaching from the talus field skirting Donut Buttress’ lower left flank, adventurers will find themselves navigating a loose, angled ramp before confronting the main thrust of the climb: a towering, obvious dihedral that dominates the wall.
The first pitch sets the tone with a sustained 5.9 sequence that demands focused movement along thin corners and slabs punctuated by a committing roof with a massive bucket hold at its crux. Protection on this stretch feels spaced, slipping slightly into a PG-13 rating — careful gear placement and a confident mindset are essential. Upon rounding the crux, climbers arrive at a generous belay on a sloped ledge, marked by a sling on a large boulder and a #4 Camalot anchor.
Pitch two eases slightly in difficulty, sliding to 5.8 terrain that mixes right-facing corners, hanging flakes, and technical traversing through a patchwork of flakes. The key here is fluid route-finding through complex rock features that require precise hand and footwork. This pitch ends at a comfortable ledge below a prominent chimney, readying climbers for the final push.
The last pitch challenges with its 5.9 rating, combining easier slab moves with a powerful crux involving finger and hand jams, stemming, and delicate balance on perfect rock. The chimney provides a satisfying finale, where strong pinching and stemming secure progress through the last vertical steps before scrambling to a broad ledge. Here, climbers can either set their final belay or continue simul-climbing toward higher anchors.
Gear up with a standard rack extending to 3 inches, doubling up on small to medium cams and carrying large cams like a #4 Camalot to protect the bigger cracks and the anchor. RPs are recommended for delicate placements, especially on the second pitch where protection options are less abundant. The rock quality is solid for the most part but be alert to loose sections near the approach ramp and talus field.
Eyes Full of Ghosts offers a direct, adventurous alpine experience that balances excitement with accessible climbing. Suitable for those comfortable with moderate 5.9 challenges in an alpine setting, the route’s mix of crack systems and face moves provides a well-rounded outing reflecting the rugged character of RMNP’s high country. Keep an eye on weather, as afternoon storms in this region can roll in fast, and ensure your timing allows ample daylight for approach, climb, and descent. With patience and focus, this line on Donut Buttress becomes a memorable alpine climb blending technical moves with a spectacular Rocky Mountain backdrop.
Watch for loose rock on the approach ramp and talus field; move carefully to avoid dislodging debris. The route’s protection can feel runout in places, so double-check placements. Afternoon lightning storms are common—plan your climb and descent with weather windows in mind.
Start early to avoid afternoon storms common above treeline.
Wear sticky climbing shoes for friction moves on slabs and corners.
Place gear carefully on pitch one to manage PG-13 protection spacing.
Prepare for a loose and scrambly approach on the talus field before the climb.
Standard trad rack including doubles in small to medium cams, plus a #4 Camalot for anchor building. RPs help with delicate placements on pitch two.
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