Edge of the Earth - A Rugged Climbing Frontier in Fern Canyon, Colorado

Estes Park, Colorado
splitter crack
long approach
alpine environment
trad climbing
routefinding
burn area
talus
high elevation
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Rocky Mountain National Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Edge of the Earth offers bold climbers a demanding approach and fine-grained splitter cracks set against the wild backdrop of Fern Canyon in Rocky Mountain National Park. This remote crag rewards those willing to navigate tricky talus and routefinding challenges with quality routes and stunning alpine views."

Edge of the Earth - A Rugged Climbing Frontier in Fern Canyon, Colorado

Tucked well beyond familiar landmarks like the Rock of Ages and The Lost World, Edge of the Earth is a quietly rewarding crag that invites climbers to step off the beaten path and into a zone defined by effort and adventure. Found deep within Forest Canyon of Rocky Mountain National Park, this secluded rock face became slightly more visible after the East Troublesome Fire, revealing its presence from Fern Lake’s steep switchbacks. But the sense of discovery remains intact, making the journey part of the thrill.

Climbing here demands commitment. The approach itself is a test of stamina and navigational skill; most climbers spend half a day tackling the mixed terrain that leads to the base. The most favored route to the crag is via The Lost World trail — a route that weaves through diverse terrain starting past the Arch Rocks campsite. It climbs a broad, rubble-filled gully before crossing an open meadow framed by massive boulders, then continues up loose talus slopes to a discreet bench. The trail’s final section involves a careful traverse beneath a burn area and a scramble over steep, rocky slabs that push your routefinding. Expect about two hours of rugged hiking that demands attention and respect for the fragile landscape.

A second approach, less traveled but ideal when combining climbs at the upper Rock of Ages, involves ascending a steep, eroded drainage by The Wasp ice climb. This path is tougher to navigate, with loose boulders and a vegetated gully, leading to the same bench above the burn zone.

Once at Edge of the Earth, climbers are greeted by walls that stand roughly 90 feet tall. The rock offers finely textured splitters that reward precise technique. The signature route, "Edge of the Earth" (5.11c), has earned a solid reputation among locals and visitors alike for both its quality and challenge. To fully enjoy the climbing, a 70-meter rope is advised, allowing ascents to reach the preferred belay ledges perched on the left side of the crag.

Climbers should plan their visit carefully because seasonal closures are enforced from mid-February through July 31st to protect nesting raptors. These restrictions limit off-trail travel around critical habitats, including the upper reaches near the Cathedral Wall and Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail. Staying informed with Rocky Mountain National Park regulations is essential for both conservation and courtesy.

The overall vibe at Edge of the Earth blends the exhilaration of technical climbing with the wilderness solitude characteristic of Fern Canyon. The elevation sits just over 9,500 feet, meaning the air is thinner and weather can shift rapidly. While the area embodies an alpine feel, climbing conditions are generally best during the summer months, when trails dry out and weather stabilizes.

Despite the demanding approach and serious terrain, climbers return for the purity of the experience — the mental engagement of old-school routefinding, the satisfaction of sharp cracks, and the sweeping mountain panoramas. Though the classic climb is the highlight, many visitors combine this outing with other nearby climbs to maximize their day in the park’s rugged heart.

Edge of the Earth is a perfect choice for climbers who prioritize adventure and self-reliance. Its combination of remote wilderness, solid rock, and a serious approach creates an unforgettable alpine day out — ideal for those ready to push past easy access and embrace the earned rewards of true mountain climbing.

Climber Safety

Approach involves loose talus and steep, rocky slabs; careful footwork and routefinding are critical. The crag sits at 9,512 feet elevation, so be prepared for rapid weather changes and thinner air. Also, plan around seasonal raptor closures and avoid off-trail travel in protected areas.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchessingle pitch
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Use a GPS device on the approach to aid with tricky routefinding, especially on The Lost World trail.

Bring a 70 meter rope to comfortably reach the established belays.

Check current RMNP seasonal closures due to raptor nesting before planning your trip.

Combine Edge of the Earth with climbs at upper Rock of Ages if using The Wasp approach.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The key climb Edge of the Earth (5.11c) sits in the upper intermediate range, offering a solid challenge on fine grained splitter cracks. The area’s grades reflect a balanced difficulty — not known for sandbagging but demanding good technique and fitness due to the approach and alpine setting. Compared to other RMNP climbs, it leans toward more technical routefinding and commitment rather than pure climbing difficulty alone.

Gear Requirements

The climbs here are roughly 90 feet tall and a 70 meter rope is recommended to reach the nicer belay ledges on the left side of the crag. The approach terrain includes loose talus and slabs, so hiking boots and careful foot placement are necessary.

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Tags

splitter crack
long approach
alpine environment
trad climbing
routefinding
burn area
talus
high elevation