"Extra Dry delivers a short but intense crack climb on Banff’s Air Voyage wall. With a pumpy overhang, precise hand jams, and solid protection, it offers an accessible yet technical challenge for crack enthusiasts and traditional climbers alike."
Extra Dry offers a focused burst of traditional climbing challenge on a tight 50-foot hand crack that winds through Air Voyage’s rugged face in Banff National Park. The route begins with a welcoming but wide crack section that demands careful footwork as you move rightward along the traverse. This initial stretch engages your balance and technique, with solid hand jams providing steady security amid the slightly overhung, pumpy angle of the climb. As you push past the traverse, the crack narrows into a more finger-sized seam that tests your precision and grip strength—each hold requires attention, rewarding careful climbers with smooth movement upward.
The climb’s short length encourages bold, committed moves, but respite awaits near the top where generous jugs invite you to shake out before clipping the two-bolt anchor. The rock here is firm, and the ledges along the way offer strategic spots for resting feet, making continuous upward progress manageable even in this physical challenge. Surrounded by the raw wilderness of Banff, the climb is framed by forested slopes below and the looming alpine ridges above, creating an environment that feels both wild and welcoming.
To prepare, climbers should bring a full rack of cams ranging from BD 0.3 to 3, with doubles in hand sizes particularly useful to secure protection as you negotiate the traverse and delicate crack sections. The route’s location is easily accessed inside Air Voyage’s Back of the Lake sector, offering a quick approach that keeps the focus on the climb rather than a long trek. Timing your ascent for mid-morning to early afternoon means facing steady daylight on the rock face without excessive heat, and the moderate altitude reduces weather volatility compared to higher alpine climbs.
For those seeking a brief but engaging crack climb with technical moves and reliable protection, Extra Dry stands out as an ideal outing. Its blend of pumpy climbing, jamming technique, and scenic setting offers a rewarding taste of Banff’s traditional climbing scene. This route is perfect for climbers honing hand crack skills or anyone wanting a well-protected pitch with just enough challenge to test endurance and finesse in a spectacular natural setting.
Watch your footing on the traverse where ledges can be narrow and the angle overhung, increasing pump. Ensure cam placements are solid, especially in hand sizes, to avoid any runouts. The top anchor is fixed and reliable, but take care in cleaning gear before lowering.
Approach via The Back of The Lake trailhead for a quick and direct access.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for the fingery crack section.
Start your climb mid-morning to avoid a cold, shaded wall and maximize grip.
Double up on hand-sized cams to ensure solid placements through the traverse.
Bring cams from BD 0.3 up to 3, with doubles in hand sizes providing essential backup protection. The two-bolt anchor is fixed, making clipping straightforward once you reach the jugs near the top.
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