"Expressway delivers a classic three-pitch sport climb at Gomer Wall, combining sustained 5.9 difficulty with lighter 5.7 and 5.8 pitches. The route’s flowing lines and secure bolts balance challenge and comfort in British Columbia’s vibrant Okanagan region."
Expressway invites climbers to engage with a solid three-pitch route cutting through the heart of Gomer Wall, perched in the scenic Cedar Park area of Okanagan, British Columbia. The climb opens with a demanding 5.9 pitch that demands focused effort and steady technique, presenting sustained movement on solid rock. This first pitch sets the tone with its quality and challenge, finishing at a secure two-bolt anchor that offers a brief respite and a chance to reassess. From here, the route shifts into a 5.7 traverse, taking you right across a shallow gully and lightly through some bushwhacking, where nature feels present but not overwhelming. The second pitch leans into lower angle climbing, peppered with bucket holds that reward persistence and balance. It’s a steady climb that contrasts with the opening pitch’s intensity but still requires attention to footwork and efficiency.
The final pitch picks up the pace again, cruising up bolt line terrain that encourages confident jug hauling. A mini roof near the upper section adds a brief technical crux, forcing you to move carefully and engage your core before powering past the roof on the way to the top. This last segment balances fun and challenge, with a mix of moderate jugs and a memorable move that will stick in your memory. Belaying here is done at a two-bolt anchor situated on a spacious ledge, providing a comfortable perch before the descent.
Returning from the top involves an approach to the right (east) along a broad ledge that leads directly to a worn and well-marked climbers’ trail. This descent route avoids unnecessary scrambling, gently guiding you down the eastern cliff band to a staircase that provides a safe exit back to the base. While rappelling is feasible with three single rope rappels, the potential for ropes to snag, especially around nearby trees, makes walking off the safer and simpler option.
The route contains 24 fixed bolts and anchors, ensuring secure protection throughout each pitch, which allows climbers to focus on movement and flow without concern for gear placements. Given the sport nature of Expressway, bringing a standard rack of quickdraws and a personal safety backup is sufficient, enabling fast but controlled progress up the rock.
Gomer Wall offers a clean, straightforward climbing experience with expansive views of the surrounding Okanagan region, blending accessibility with enough adventure to satisfy both intermediate climbers looking to sharpen their multi-pitch skills and seasoned climbers seeking solid 5.9 sport lines with character. Mid-morning to early afternoon provides balanced light, casting cool shade over most of the climb and keeping the rock from overheating during warmer months. Plan your timing accordingly for a comfortable ascent, and be prepared for variable winds near the ledges above.
Expressway’s mixture of sustained climbing, varied pitch sequences, and a practical yet scenic walk off make it an ideal addition to any Okanagan climbing itinerary. Pack enough water, comfortable climbing shoes with solid edging capability, and a light layer for the top out where exposure picks up. The route’s straightforward protection scheme and manageable descent simplify logistics, allowing climbers to stay focused on the move and the moment, not the details.
While the climb is well-protected, the descent requires caution. The walk-off path skirts an exposed ledge with loose debris in places, and rappelling increases risk of rope snagging, especially near trees at the halfway mark. Approach and exit with attentive footing and avoid slipping on the rock’s dusty patches.
Start early to take advantage of cooler rock and steady light conditions.
Walk off east along the ledge rather than rappelling to avoid rope snags.
Prepare for a brief bushwhack crossing on the second pitch—wear pants and stay alert.
Bring enough water and layers; the top out can be exposed to wind.
24 bolts with fixed two-bolt anchors protect every pitch, eliminating the need for traditional gear. Quickdraws sufficient for the sport line; rope management is key given short fixed anchors.
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