HomeClimbingUnknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn

Exploring the Untamed Groove Left of Darkness 'til Dawn

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad rack
small tree waypoint
left arete
solid gear
single pitch
Eldorado Canyon
moderate crux
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Set just to the left of the popular Darkness 'til Dawn route, this hidden groove offers solid traditional climbing with dependable gear and a quiet crux above a small tree. Its challenging moves and accessible length make it a perfect choice for climbers looking to explore Eldorado Canyon’s less-traveled lines."

Exploring the Untamed Groove Left of Darkness 'til Dawn

Just steps left of the well-known Darkness 'til Dawn climb in Eldorado Canyon, an often-overlooked groove waits quietly for those who dare to venture beyond the popular routes. This discreet crack, extending upward past a resilient small tree, calls climbers who appreciate solid traditional climbing with dependable protection and a touch of mystery. It’s not featured in standard guidebooks, but its appeal grows with every ascent.

Starting with an approach similar to Darkness 'til Dawn, the route veers immediately left, guiding you into a natural groove that demands both technique and attention. The initial climbing is moderate, perfect for warming up muscles as your hands discover the friction on Eldorado’s characteristic golden sandstone. The groove winds past a small tree, a natural waypoint whose weathered bark and subtle sway offer a brief moment of calm before the challenge intensifies.

The crux lies just above this tree, where the corner narrows and blank sections push you to move right, seeking holds that just beg to be grabbed. The rock here feels alive, textured with gritty edges and pockets that give invitation yet require precise footwork and commitment. This is where you truly test your balance and creativity, with options to continue right into the steeper, more famed Darkness 'til Dawn, or skirt left around the arete into a left-facing corner. The chosen path leads to a somewhat precarious fixed anchor, a reminder to respect the rock’s quiet power and unpredictability.

Gear-wise, a standard rack with cams sized up to a #2 Gold Camalot will serve well. Placements feel reassuringly solid in the groove’s constrictions, rewarding careful gear selection and thoughtful placements. If you’re tempted to push onward to the top of Darkness 'til Dawn, be prepared with a 70-meter rope or double ropes for descent—raps from the anchors require sufficient length. Alternatively, backing off to the fixed anchor on the left offers a safer, if more conservative, exit.

Eldorado Canyon is a sun-drenched playground renowned for its steep sandstone walls and sharp, crisp edges. On good days, the canyon's walls soak up the light, casting long shadows that cool the surface. This particular groove enjoys morning sun, making early starts ideal to avoid midday heat and maximize grip. Nearby Boulder provides quick access to vibrant town life for post-climb refueling, but here, amid the rock face, nature controls the rhythm and pace.

Approach to this route is straightforward but attentive—follow the trail up to Darkness 'til Dawn’s base, then move carefully left into the groove’s shadow. Terrain here is mostly solid underfoot, though loose rock near the base advises cautious foot placement. Expect a 10 to 15-minute walk from the main trailhead, making the climb accessible for half-day missions.

Whether you’re seeking a fresh challenge or a new perspective on a famed climbing zone, this unnamed groove offers a blend of reliable protection and rewarding moves that test your footwork and route reading. Its quiet presence beside Darkness 'til Dawn invites exploration and respect, a subtle reminder that adventure often thrives just out of the spotlight.

Climber Safety

Beware of the somewhat sparse protection near the questionable fixed anchor left of the groove. When descending, ensure you have adequate rope length and avoid backing up anchors unless absolutely necessary. Loose rock at the base demands cautious foot placement during approach.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Begin early to enjoy cooler rock and less sun exposure.

Inspect gear placements carefully above the small tree where the corner blanks out.

Bring a 70m or double ropes if descending from Darkness 'til Dawn anchors.

Watch footing near the base approach where loose rock can be present.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9-, this route feels accessible for climbers comfortable with moderate trad moves. The crux above the tree requires precise footwork rather than raw power, making the grade feel fair and not artificially stiff. Compared to Darkness 'til Dawn, this line offers a slightly softer introduction with reliable protection and fewer sustained difficult moves.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack including cams to #2 Gold Camalot is recommended. Placements along the groove are secure and thoughtfully spaced, with no fixed gear apart from a questionable anchor near the top left exit. Descents require either a 70m or double ropes if aiming for Darkness 'til Dawn anchors, or rappelling from the fixed anchor if exiting left.

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Tags

trad rack
small tree waypoint
left arete
solid gear
single pitch
Eldorado Canyon
moderate crux