"Located just left of Ichabod at Turtle Lake, this 40-foot trad climb offers a balanced mix of steady crack climbing and a technical mantle, perfect for trad climbers seeking a manageable but engaging challenge in Colorado’s high desert."
A few steps to the left of the well-traveled Ichabod and Ichabod Direct routes at Turtle Lake’s towering cliffs, a striking crack invites trad climbers looking for a measured challenge. This 40-foot climb offers a steady introduction to the area’s rugged sandstone, blending a broad, hand-filling crack with a brief, technical mantle that tests both balance and strength. Unlike the crisper demands of Ichabod’s pitches, this route provides a softer sequence, making it a preferred choice for climbers easing into Turtle Lake’s multi-pitch terrain.
The crack ascends with an encouraging rhythm, moving smoothly at a consistent 5.6 grade before arriving at the pivotal mantle. This technical move requires a secure foot placement against sandy rock, where subtle shifts in weight dictate success. After cresting the mantle, climbers navigate a short rightward traverse—about 10 feet—toward a fixed pin and bolt that mark the anchor. This section demands attention to footwork and body positioning, rewarding those who maintain calm precision.
Turtle Lake itself is a haven of classic Southwest climbing with its warm sun-soaked walls and the ever-present scent of juniper brushing the approach. The landscape around this route is open yet shielded by towering rock faces that catch the golden light in the late afternoon, making for a memorable climb and descent.
Approaching the climb, anticipate uneven terrain underfoot and loose rock scattered near the base. The route’s reliance on larger cams means a well-rounded rack focusing on medium to large sizes is essential, giving safe and confident placements within the crack. This protection style also allows climbers to manage the crux mantle without hesitation, with the belayer positioned comfortably at the base.
Safety is paramount here: the sandy mantle, while manageable, requires deliberate foot placements to avoid slips, and the traverse section demands clear communication and steady balance. Being a single-pitch climb, it’s a straightforward climb for those with some trad experience but offers enough technical intrigue to hold attention.
If you’re planning your climb, consider morning to early afternoon for the best dry conditions and comfortable temperatures. The site offers a blend of exposure and shelter from midday sun, but spring and fall provide the most comfortable windows. After topping out, the descent is a simple walk-off through talus fields that lead back to Turtle Lake’s trailhead, enabling climbers to enjoy a relaxed finish surrounded by the region’s natural beauty.
Experienced or not, the 5.8- crack at Turtle Lake embodies practical adventure—melding manageable difficulty with satisfying moves and straightforward logistics. This route offers a chance to practice solid crack technique while soaking in the Colorado high country’s expansive views and dry, warm air. Whether you're transitioning from sport climbs or simply exploring Durango’s climbing gems, this route rewards preparation, focus, and the steady pulse of rock under your hands.
The mantle move presents the primary risk of slipping due to sandy rock texture—ensure deliberate foot placement and test holds carefully. The short traverse to the anchor requires stable footing; avoid rushing and maintain solid communication with your belayer.
Approach early to avoid afternoon heat and ensure dry rock for the mantle move.
Use medium to large cams; small gear won’t fit securely in the crack.
Focus on foot placement on the sandy mantle to avoid slipping.
Communicate clearly during the rightward traverse to the anchor, as it requires steady balance.
Bring a set of large cams to protect the crack and mantling section securely. Medium to large sizes will fit the wide crack snugly and offer solid placements near the anchor.
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