Excellent Smithers carves a solid line across the West Face of Medlicott Dome, offering climbers a focused adventure where technical slab climbing takes center stage. Located in the heart of Yosemite’s Tuolumne Meadows, this 400-foot, four-pitch trad route invites those with a taste for finger cracks, precise footwork, and subtle gear placements. The climb’s signature move centers on the third pitch, where a shallow left-facing corner challenges climbers with its tricky protection. While rock quality can feel a bit inconsistent here, a strategically placed bolt below and a handful of cams help maintain confidence to push through.

The approach to Medlicott Dome is straightforward yet rewarding—just a short trek from Tuolumne Meadows, where the trees thin out onto granite expanses under an open sky. As you ascend, the slab sections demand delicate balance, rewarding controlled movements that blend technique and patience. This isn’t the place for power moves or brute strength; instead, it celebrates finesse and focus, with moments of breath-catching exposure framed by Tuolumne’s high country beauty.

For protection, the route requires a diverse rack of cams combined with bolts, so climbers must come prepared with plenty of draws and comfortable placing skills. Gear placements here are earned — some spots feel borderline, especially on the crux corner, where careful assessment prolongs safety. Greg Barnes’ work in establishing this line has created a path that feels both classic and challenging, offering a route that has become a rite of passage for local Tuolumne climbers and visitors alike.

Timing your climb during mid-summer or early fall will typically guarantee dry conditions and stable weather—slabs shine best when clean and warm. Early morning starts are ideal to avoid the afternoon heat, especially as the exposure leaves little shade to cool off. After summiting, a careful walk-off guides you safely back to the trailhead, offering moments to reflect on the climb and the wild, open forests spreading below.

This climb speaks directly to those who appreciate subtle challenges and the tactile joy of granite friction. Excellent Smithers is a technical journey through quiet spaces on Medlicott Dome, tuning your senses to rock, balance, and the steady rhythm of climbing tradition at Yosemite’s alpine edge.