"Excellent Crack challenges climbers with a bold roof move that leads to twin cracks ascending through the iconic Rightovers cliffs. Offering solid protection and a rewarding finish, it’s a memorable single-pitch trad route that balances technical face moves and crack skills against sweeping Colorado views."
Carving through the rugged cliffs of Rightovers in Colorado’s Turkey Rocks area, Excellent Crack offers a sharp blend of technical face climbing and finger-tight crack work that challenges both your skills and your sense of adventure. This single-pitch trad route starts with a focused push up a roof that dares you past its bulging chopper-like flakes, setting the tone for an engaging climb that demands attention and precision. As you emerge beyond the roof, twin cracks open upward—one narrowing and the other broadening near the top, inviting hands and fingers to dance along its widening embrace. The rock beneath your fingertips feels gritty but solid, the texture a constant reminder of nature’s raw craftsmanship.
Approaching from Turkey Tail, a short descent to the east brings you alongside the cliff band’s base, the landscape guiding you toward this distinctive crack nestled between Left Y Crack and a large roof that juts out like a protective guard. The setting invites not only a mental focus but also a sensory experience—the dry Colorado air, occasional rustling of wind pressing against the rock walls, and distant calls of birds punctuate your ascent. A 200-foot rope is ample both for leading and top roping, keeping your setup straightforward and efficient.
Protection arrays require versatility. From small cams to larger pieces like a #5 Camalot, it’s wise to carry a varied rack as the crack’s width evolves, and some placements demand creative thinking. The anchor at the summit is relatively accessible, allowing for a secure top rope or a confident lead finish. After conquering the climb, the descent is a short walk west along the ridge line, a chance to reflect on the crisp climb while the landscape shifts beneath your feet. Whether you’re polishing crack climbing or seeking a bold introduction to spellbinding sandstone lines, Excellent Crack pairs adventure with practical demands, all set against Colorado’s striking cliffscape backdrop.
Watch out for loose flakes at the roof—some resemble chopper flakes and require careful testing before weighting. The approach trail can be rocky and uneven, so sturdy footwear and keen attention reduce slip hazards.
Approach from Turkey Tail and drop east along the cliff base for an easy route-in.
Bring a wide range of cams; the crack’s width changes significantly near the top.
Top roping is straightforward with 200 feet of rope—use this to build confidence.
Plan your descent westward on the ridge walk; stay aware of loose rocks on the trail.
A versatile rack ranging from small cams through mid-sized pieces is essential, with a #5 Camalot recommended for the wider sections near the top. A 200-foot rope covers both lead and top rope options comfortably.
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