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Eine Kleine Nachtmusik Climbing Guide

Fresno, California United States
trad
crack climbing
slab
multi-pitch
granite
suspect rock
Southern Sierra
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Eine Kleine Nachtmusik
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Eine Kleine Nachtmusik offers two pitches of committed trad climbing on the Southern Sierra’s Main Wall. It features a distinctive left-arching dihedral crack and technical slab, requiring solid gear skills and caution around some tricky rock sections."

Eine Kleine Nachtmusik Climbing Guide

Perched along the striking Main Wall of California's Southern Sierra lies Eine Kleine Nachtmusik, a two-pitch trad route that tests both skill and composure. Start just left of the well-known Elixir, where a distinct left-arching dihedral crack invites a steady hand and tactical placements. The initial pitch rewards climbers with a mix of crack climbing and technical slab moves, taking you past carefully placed bolts toward a series of anchors. When the crack texture turns furry near the top, step left to navigate slabs that require deliberate footwork and reliable draws to protect the journey. The top anchors mark a pivotal spot where two ropes can be employed for a double rappel back to solid ground.

Pitch two stretches 60 feet upward, rated at a comfortable 5.7, blending crack climbing with face moves. It demands attention not only for proficiency but also for caution—watch for the infamous 'stacked death' feature crowning the right side of the corner, a notorious rock hazard that climbers must respect. The finish is an exposed scramble over a chaotic bed of knobs leading to a solid three buttonhead anchor supplemented by a knob backup for redundancy.

Experienced parties might link both pitches with a 70-meter rope, careful to place quality gear or embrace runouts, offering a taste of simul climbing that injects boldness into the ascent. Should you reach the upper anchor, a short 10a bolted pitch awaits, extending the challenge before arriving at the rappel station.

Protection callouts emphasize doubles up to 3" cams, a single 4" cam, offset cams, and runners to guard the slab sections. Climbers should prepare for some suspect rock—approach placements with a critical eye and trust your gear choices. A handful of quickdraws will smooth the transition on the slab moves but don't rely on fixed protection alone.

The approach to Eine Kleine Nachtmusik tracks through Shuteye Ridge, offering a rugged-to-moderate hike with ample opportunities to absorb the raw granite surroundings. Plan for enough time to gear up, approach carefully, and enjoy the isolation—this stretch of the Southern Sierra sees fewer crowds but rewards patience and preparation with crisp views and satisfying climbing.

Time your climb to avoid midday sun; the wall’s aspect favors cooler hours in the morning or late afternoon, enhancing friction and comfort. Descend via two rappels from the established stations, ensuring rope management and anchor checks are thorough. This route delivers an experience balancing thoughtful placing with inspiring exposure, all wrapped in the classic granite character unique to the Sierra Nevada.

Climber Safety

The 'stacked death' rock feature near the top of pitch two is unstable and can present serious hazards. Carefully evaluate all placements and avoid leaning on suspicious rock. Select approach timing to avoid heat stress, and always inspect anchors before rappelling.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Approach via Shuteye Ridge trail; expect rugged sections with moderate footing.

Climb in cooler morning or late afternoon hours to maximize friction on slabs.

Carry extra runners for extended gear options around the transition.

Double-check rappel anchors; two 60m ropes make the descent smoother.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.10a, this climb offers a solid challenge tempered by 5.7 terrain on the second pitch. The initial pitch's technical slab and crack sequence demand precise footwork, and the presence of a short bolted 10a section can bump difficulty locally. Compared to other Southern Sierra trad routes, the grade feels well balanced but requires savvy gear placement, especially when linking pitches.

Gear Requirements

Doubles of cams to 3 inches, a single 4-inch cam, and a selection of offset cams and runners are essential. Bring 5 quickdraws for the slab section where bolts provide limited protection. Be prepared for suspect rock; place gear carefully.

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Tags

trad
crack climbing
slab
multi-pitch
granite
suspect rock
Southern Sierra