"Ein Kluck packs precise trad climbing into a short 50-foot pitch on Eldorado Canyon's West Ridge. Its moderate 5.9 moves demand careful gear placements and confidence on occasionally runout sections, making it an ideal taste of Colorado granite for committed climbers ready to climb smart."
Ein Kluck offers a compact but engaging trad challenge tucked into the West Ridge of Eldorado Canyon. This single-pitch climb—just over 50 feet—demands finesse on moderate terrain with occasional runout sections that call for confidence and commitment. The approach brings you into an intimate rocky alcove where the rock breathes history and adventure, its face sporting patches of damp lichen that cling stubbornly after rain, reminding you to pick a dry day for your ascent. Your hands will find subtle holds along a sequence of horizontal cracks, each hosting a foot or two of protection, and the rock’s texture is a tactile blend of coarse granite with weathered spots inviting your fingers to seek purchase.
The route starts by angling up and right into a scooped area, the low horizontal crack on your right optionally holding a green Alien, though loose placements require caution. Progressing through carefully opposed #4 BD wires and a trusty blue Alien, you move through a series of horizontal breaks that demand controlled laybacks and precise footwork. Establishing your stance above the main crack involves a combination of lieback maneuvers and high stepping, setting you up for a choice: veer right or head straight toward a small twig clinging to the rock surface. This final section allows the strategic placement of orange Aliens and a #3.5 Camalot in solid huecos before you push to the tree anchor crowning the pitch.
Descending means retracing your steps with a careful downclimb up and left toward the Washington Irving approach—a reminder that the commitment to the route extends beyond the climb itself. Protection is varied but vital: blue, green, and orange Aliens, along with a range of #4 to #8 BD wires and a #3.5 Camalot, become invaluable tools for safe passage. The line feels approachable for climbers with solid 5.9 skills but demands respect for the occasional runout and the need for precise gear placements.
Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge feels alive as the wind shifts slightly, whispering through the trees and pushing you to stay sharp as you navigate this compact climb. This is a perfect route for those who appreciate a brief but rewarding session that tests technique and mental grit, wrapped in the authenticity of one of Colorado’s celebrated climbing areas. When planning your trip, prioritize stable weather and ensure your rack matches the protection recommendations. The mixture of sun and shade on this wall lends itself to spring or fall outings when the temperature balances out, and the angling light brings out texture and contrast on the rock face.
Eventually, the tree at the top offers a quiet moment to breathe in sweeping canyon views and feel the pulse of the ridge before careful descent. Whether you're ticked out your moderate classics or simply seeking a short, satisfying pitch with character, Ein Kluck presents a route that’s as much about thoughtful movement and placing quality gear as it is about the joy of climbing in Eldorado’s storied landscape.
Be mindful of potentially loose gear placements, particularly in the initial horizontal cracks. Avoid attempting this climb when wet, as lichen absorbs moisture and dramatically reduces friction. The short, steep descent demands caution to avoid slips while downclimbing.
Choose a dry day to avoid slippery lichen on the rock face.
Bring a full rack with Aliens and a range of bigger BD wires for secure placements.
Plan for a quick but focused ascent, as the pitch is compact with no room to linger.
Descend carefully by downclimbing up and left toward the Washington Irving approach.
A rack including blue, green, and orange Aliens along with #4 to #8 BD wires, plus a #3.5 Camalot covers the protection needs. Some placements can be tricky and feel less solid, especially the low horizontal crack where a green Alien once slipped.
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