"A compact trad climb on Milky Way Wall offering a steep blocky dihedral and a bolted face section. Its single 100-foot pitch combines precise crack climbing with reliable bolts, perfect as a bonus climb after exploring Shuteye Ridge."
Edge of the Galaxy is the kind of climb that rewards those who’ve already savored the main offerings on Milky Way Wall. This short, single-pitch trad route packs a surprising amount of technical interest into its 100-foot length, making it a worthwhile bonus to include after topping out on the larger faces of Shuteye Ridge. From the first step, you’re met with a steep, blocky dihedral that demands steady footwork and solid crack skills. The rock here is firm but lively, each hold inviting you to trust your placements as you ascend. After committing through the dihedral, the climb transitions onto a steep face peppered with four thoughtfully placed bolts. This section gives you the chance to supplement your gear with some polished knobs tied off for protection, blending natural and fixed gear into a confident runout.
The wall’s southern Sierra setting brings a raw, elemental feel to the ascent. As you gain the ledge, the higher face eases just enough to catch your breath while still challenging balance and technique. The exposure is real but manageable, and the anchor, a chain fixed above the bolts, ensures an easy transition for rappelling. Speaking of rapping, be cautious pulling your rope—there’s a knob hazard that can snag or wear your line if not handled with care.
Approach to this route is straightforward by Sierra standards: a short hike from the main trailhead drops you at the base of Milky Way Wall, where the climb’s position on Shuteye Ridge makes it a scenic detour. Keep your gear light and your focus sharp; the granite here rewards precision, and the entire pitch flows with a satisfying rhythm once you find your stride. Though rated a moderate 5.8, the technical demands and protection nuances make it feel more like a well-earned cruise than an easy stroll.
Whether you’re rounding out a day of routes in the Southern Sierra or seeking a reliable test of hands-on trad skills with a neat mix of bolts and natural pro, Edge of the Galaxy steps up with style and straightforward fun. Gear up smartly, respect the rope management challenges, and take in the wide views that remind you how vast and unyielding this range can be.
The rappel anchor sits on a ledge with a protrusive knob that can catch your rope during retrieval. Always pull carefully and consider doubling up your rope technique to prevent wear or rope jams. The blocky dihedral though solid can have loose flakes—scout your placements thoroughly.
Watch rope management carefully when rappelling to avoid snagging on the protruding knob near the anchor.
Plan to climb in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the peak sun on the southern face.
Use footwear with precise edging ability for the blocky crack and face transitions.
Stay mindful of wind exposure near the ledge, which can catch you off balance during belays.
Bring a rack with a focus on medium-sized cams to protect the initial dihedral, as well as slings or runners to secure the polished knobs on the bolted face. Four bolts provide solid backup and reduce runout risk.
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