Adventure Collective

Eclipse: A Classic Hand Crack on Turkey Tail

Denver, Colorado USA
hand crack
trad
off-width nearby
single-pitch
granite
south platte
clean protection
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Eclipse
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Eclipse is a standout single-pitch trad climb in the Turkey Tail area, showcasing a clean hand crack that challenges technique while rewarding with solid protection and memorable granite. Ideal for crack climbers seeking a confident 5.9 adventure close to Denver."

Eclipse: A Classic Hand Crack on Turkey Tail

Eclipse offers a focused, satisfying trad climb deep within the Turkey Tail section of South Platte, Colorado. Approaching from the well-worn trail, your eyes lock onto a solid hand crack sitting about 40 feet up the face—your direct invitation to test finger strength and steady footwork. To the left, an off-width crack expands in size, tempting climbers looking for more challenging moves, while to the right, a jagged crack known locally as Termination offers an alternative route marked by its shifting widths and a 5.8 rating.

Starting from the base requires a brief scramble from the trail, setting the tone for a day where the approach feels as much a part of the experience as the climb itself. The initial 50 feet present a continuous hand crack, crisp and clean, demanding commitment and precise gear placements. Upon reaching a ledge, the route eases into shorter crack sections before merging into an approachable slab that guides climbers to the anchor station.

This one-pitch climb extends roughly 90 feet and maintains a consistent 5.9- difficulty, appealing to climbers confident with crack climbing fundamentals and comfortable managing traditional protection. Placements come in a range of sizes, from small nuts to #3.5 Camalots, with doubling up on hand-size cams a common strategy for securing safety in the slightly wider sections. The rock quality is solid, with minimal loose stone, allowing climbers to focus on technique rather than worrying about unreliable holds.

As you ascend, the quiet forest surrounding Turkey Tail frames the climb, with pine needles softening footsteps and the occasional birdcall threading through the stillness. The granite face stands firm, almost daring you to engage in a battle of steady hands and smart gear placements. At the anchor, a well-maintained sling setup offers a reliable top-out, and the descent is straightforward with a single 60-meter rappel.

This route’s charm is as much in its environment as its moves—it's a slice of classic Colorado crack climbing, framed by the South Platte’s well-loved climbing grounds. Because the wall faces mostly east-northeast, morning light hits just enough to warm the rock, but shade arrives by afternoon, making spring and fall ideal seasons to enjoy the climb comfortably.

For climbers preparing for Eclipse, expect a moderate approach through forested trails and uneven terrain. Solid footwear with good traction is a must for the scramble to the base. Bring a full trad rack emphasizing cams from #0.75 up to #3.5 and a handful of stoppers. Since the climb sits in a popular area, plan your ascent for early in the day if you want to avoid crowds, and always double-check anchors and slings before trust falls. This route doesn’t soften much on the grade, but its straightforward nature makes it a reliable fun test-piece that blends well with a day spent exploring the South Platte’s diverse climbs.

Climber Safety

Despite solid rock and good protection, watch for loose debris near the base and approach scramble. Carefully assess the bolted anchors and slings at the top before committing to the rappel, especially during wet conditions when the slab can become slick.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon shade and potential slickness from moisture.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with reliable edging for the slab section near the top.

Double check all gear placements, especially in the wider crack sections.

Expect a short, moderately steep scramble from the trail—trail shoes or approach shoes with good traction help.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating reflects a climb that feels fair to slightly soft for seasoned crack climbers—there's a solid hand crack that stays consistent, with the main demands coming from protecting the moves rather than complicated sequences. Compared to neighboring routes like Termination (5.8), Eclipse presents a straightforward but more sustained challenge, making it a good progression climb for trad enthusiasts.

Gear Requirements

A well-rounded trad rack is essential: #0.75 to #3.5 Camalots, medium and large stoppers, and a few large hexes. Doubling up on hand-size cams is recommended to confidently protect the wider sections. Bring webbing and locking carabiners for rappelling, and a 60-meter rope for the descent.

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Tags

hand crack
trad
off-width nearby
single-pitch
granite
south platte
clean protection