"Easy Wind threads four pitches of variable crack and friction climbing up Fresno Dome’s South Face. This route challenges slab skills and gear placements without pushing into extreme difficulty, offering a rewarding trad adventure framed by California’s rugged wilds."
Easy Wind offers a hands-on introduction to Fresno Dome's south face, where granite meets adventurous spirit across four pitches that balance technical challenges with rewarding exposure. The climb starts in a discreet gully to the left of the dome’s striking golden face. The first pitch is a brief but steady groove and crack climb, weaving past a bolt to establish a solid belay on a ledge sheltered in an alcove, setting the tone for the route’s practical protection and variety of terrain.
The second pitch stretches longer and demands careful rope management, as its awkward crack sits in a groove that can cause drag if not broken into smaller segments. As you near a prominent overhang, the route bends right, presenting a network of cracks and knobs that allow multiple paths—skill to read the rock will pay off. This section finishes on a bolted belay with welded chains, inviting you to pause on a comfortable foot-ledge with sweeping views of the dome and expanse beyond.
Pitch three has a reputation: it tests your nerve on polished friction slabs that shimmer golden in the sunlight. From the belay, a left traverse and slight downclimb lead onto glassy rock, where confident smearing and precise footwork earn you passage up and left to a crucial foothold. While the original line veers into a right-facing corner and ledge, your safest bet may be the bolted variation that starts here—be ready for tricky, runout moves with bolts placed in challenging spots. The crux at 5.9 means you’ll need steady hands and patience clipping bolts from tenuous stances, with a 5.10 move looming at the third bolt if you push further. Eventually, you'll top out on a secure bolted anchor poised at a ledge.
The final pitch relaxes into a straightforward climb up a narrow right-facing corner. Protecting mostly with small gear, this short pitch leads onto the gentler, third-class slab topping out on Fresno Dome. The approach, protection, and route choices combine tradition and boldness; you’ll find a classic Yosemite-style adventure that demands respect but rewards with pure granite climbing and near-constant open sky.
Gear up with a rack that extends up to 4 inches, focusing on solid placements in cracks and pockets. The route holds a R rating reflecting anxious moments on friction slabs and runouts, so be prepared mentally as well as physically. For those new to trad or polishing their slab skills, timing your ascent when the rock is dry is crucial—moisture or morning dew could turn the intricacies of this route into a slippery test. Fresno Dome’s location in the Southern Sierra enhances the experience, with forested trails nearby easing access and a landscape that feels wild and wide. Whether you climb for the technical puzzle, the scenic reward, or just to challenge your limits, Easy Wind offers an accessible yet stirring connection with California’s granite high country.
Pitch three’s friction slab can become particularly slick in shade or moisture, and bolt placements on the variation offer limited resting spots. Be mindful of rope drag on pitch two’s long groove to avoid unexpected strain. Also, the final slab descent requires surefootedness to prevent slips.
Approach via well-marked trails on the dome’s south side; allow 20-30 minutes from the parking area.
Climb when the rock surface is dry, as polished slabs become dangerous when wet or damp.
Bring extra cordelette or webbing for anchors, as some belays rely on bolts with chains.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon sun on the south-facing wall, which can heat the rock and increase fatigue.
Protective gear up to 4 inches is essential, focusing on traditional placements within cracks and grooves. Watch for potentially tricky bolt positions on pitch three’s variation. Ensure your rack covers a range of cams and nuts to confidently manage the varied pro.
Upload your photos of Easy Wind and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.