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Drillathon: Classic Trad Line on Big Baldy Buttress

Three Rivers, California United States
crack climb
runout sections
multi-pitch
granite
traditional
moderate difficulty
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Drillathon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Drillathon presents a compelling two-pitch trad climb on Big Baldy’s granite buttress. Combining solid crack climbs with an airy second pitch, this route offers classic exposure framed by the natural beauty of Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks."

Drillathon: Classic Trad Line on Big Baldy Buttress

Drillathon offers a compelling introduction to traditional climbing in the rugged terrain of Big Baldy, tucked within California’s Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. This route carves a direct path up a prominent buttress, where a defined crack system demands steady hands and precise gear placement. The first pitch challenges your ability to read natural features, with solid jams in the crack that reward patient technique. As you ascend, the character of the climb shifts; cracks give way to a fingerboard of chickenheads offering true climbing variety. The second pitch is less steep, easing the physical demands but revealing a different kind of mental test: the protection thins noticeably, and elongated runouts demand confident footwork and composure.

The rugged granite of Big Baldy feels alive here, the rock’s rough texture brushing against your skin, while surrounding pines sway quietly as if watching your progress. The route’s 300-foot length is broken into two pitches that balance accessibility with genuine adventure — ideal for climbers seeking a moderate challenge with a touch of exposure.

Approach to Drillathon is straightforward but purposeful. From trailhead to base, the walk carries you across forested paths littered with pine needles and dappled sunlight, lasting about 20 minutes. Once you reach the buttress, the climb’s natural features are unmistakable: an inviting crack spiraling upward, beckoning you forward.

Gear up with a standard trad rack geared toward medium-sized cams and nuts; some fixed bolts appear sparingly, but they should not be relied upon exclusively. The placements on the lower pitch are solid, rewarding careful gear management, but the second pitch demands respect and patience, as protection is sparse. Expect to be judicious with your pro and maintain a tight focus on body positioning.

This route shines in the morning hours, with the rock warming gently under the sun’s first light. Afternoon shade nudges in from the surrounding ridges, providing cooling relief on warmer days, yet winter months bring chill and should be approached with layered clothing and caution.

Descent is approachable: a short walk-off along the ridge connects back to main trails, with some sections requiring mindful scrambling. Avoid loose rock areas and take steady steps; the overlook views reward you handsomely for your efforts.

Drillathon embodies the spirit of traditional climbing in Big Baldy — straightforward, tactile, and quietly thrilling. It invites careful planning, a steady head, and an appetite for simple, honest adventure.

Climber Safety

Be vigilant during the second pitch, as protection placements are sparse and runout. Loose chickenheads require careful testing before trust. Approach with a solid rack and wear a helmet to guard against occasional rockfall.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy warm morning sun on the buttress.

Double-check placements on the second pitch due to sparse protection.

Wear sturdy shoes with firm edging capabilities for chickenhead sections.

Hydrate well before the climb; the approach is shaded but the climb can heat up.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 PG13 rating accurately reflects Drillathon’s moderate physical demands combined with increased mental focus from runouts on the second pitch. While the technical difficulty remains approachable, the exposure on pitch two suggests a grade slightly stiffer than typical 5.8 routes, rewarding climbers comfortable with less protection and sustained movement.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack emphasizing medium-sized cams and a variety of nuts. While there are some fixed bolts, the route primarily depends on natural protection with careful placements, especially on the second pitch where runouts increase.

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Tags

crack climb
runout sections
multi-pitch
granite
traditional
moderate difficulty