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Dreaming in Color

Fresno, California United States
slab
chicken heads
south face
trad gear
anchor chains
rappel
Southern Sierra
Length: 160 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dreaming in Color
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dreaming in Color combines smooth slab climbing with a stretch of engaging chicken head crack, rewarding steady technique and offering sweeping views from Hawk Tower’s summit. This accessible trad route demands careful gear management and delivers a satisfying climb in California’s Southern Sierra."

Dreaming in Color

Dreaming in Color unfurls across Hawk Tower’s south face, offering climbers a blend of sleek slab movement and enjoyable crack climbing that rewards both finesse and focus. The climb begins with a smooth, slabby approach that tests balance and footwork before the terrain opens into a generous run of chicken heads—those unmistakable holds that invite steady hands and calculated moves. As you navigate this series of features, the wall bends gracefully around the corner, revealing a broad vantage point where the walls seem to breathe with the afternoon light. The final section eases into a straightforward 5.3 to 5.4 slab, welcoming even those easing out of the more technical sections with a smooth summit finish atop Hawk Tower. From this perch, the panorama stretches wide, a quiet reward after the climbed challenge.

Protection on Dreaming in Color requires a thoughtful approach. With bolts spaced to allow ample gear placements, climbers will do well to carry a rack that reaches up to 3 inches in cam size, along with draws and some slings for those clever chicken head extensions to minimize rope drag. The two anchors at the summit are connected by chains, providing a secure top-out and rappel point. For those working with rope limits, a secondary rappel station halfway down offers an option to retreat or descend in stages, but a full 70-meter rope will comfortably take you from the top to the base in one controlled drop.

Hawk Tower’s setting is quietly commanding, situated within the broader Shuteye Ridge region of California’s Southern Sierra. The approach winds through mixed terrain: brush-lined trails and scattered pines offer a tactile contrast to the grey vertical slabs. The wall faces south, soaking up morning sun but cooling off in the afternoon shade, an important consideration when timing your ascent to avoid midday heat. This aspect also means the best climbs happen in spring and fall, when temperatures balance between crisp and comfortable.

The descent calls for careful attention. While a single rappel will bring you to solid ground if you have the right rope, intermediate rappellers should note the halfway chain station. Extend your draws on the initial section to counteract potential rope drag and stay mindful of gear placements — some of the chicken heads, though dependable, need cautious clipping. The surrounding environment is calm but exposed; a misstep near the edge can have consequences, so steady focus on footing during both climb and descent is essential.

Dreaming in Color is a quietly rewarding trad climb that suits both intermediate climbers looking to refine technique on slab and those drawn to the rhythm of crack features. It balances challenge with accessibility, set in one of California’s quietly evocative granite strongholds. It’s a climb that invites deliberate movement, measured decisions, and an attentive eye, all while delivering a lasting impression from the summit with its sweeping views and sunlit rock.

Climber Safety

The route features widely spaced protection with sections reliant on chicken heads, so maintaining focus on gear choices and placements is vital. The approach to the rappel station requires care, especially if lowering from the midpoint. Be cautious of loose rock near route edges during descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length160 feet

Local Tips

Bring a 70m rope to rappel directly from the summit to the ground.

Start climbs early to avoid afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.

Use slings to extend clips on chicken heads and bolts to minimize rope drag.

Check weather and avoid climbing when rain is expected – the slab can get slippery.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Dreaming in Color feels approachable but demands solid slab technique, especially at the start. The runout between bolts requires confident gear placements, particularly on chicken heads. The final slab section eases off, making for a natural conclusion to the climb. This grade sits well for those familiar with classic California granite but new to crack sequences.

Gear Requirements

Carrying cams up to 3 inches, draws, and several slings is essential to protect the widely spaced bolts and chicken head features. Extending protection early helps reduce rope drag and increases safety on the route.

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Tags

slab
chicken heads
south face
trad gear
anchor chains
rappel
Southern Sierra