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Dragonfly at The Brown Wall: A Classic Trad Climb on Thunder Ridge

Evergreen, Colorado USA
trad
offwidth
crack climbing
face climbing
single pitch
solid protection
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dragonfly
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dragonfly offers a classic trad climbing experience on The Brown Wall with a blend of crack jams and face climbing. Its single pitch packs technical variety into 70 feet of engaging moves, perfect for trad climbers pushing into offwidth territory."

Dragonfly at The Brown Wall: A Classic Trad Climb on Thunder Ridge

Dragonfly stands as a rewarding single-pitch trad climb carved into the rugged character of The Brown Wall, one of the well-regarded faces along Thunder Ridge. The route unfolds through a series of crack systems—flakes, corners, and offwidth challenges—that demand both technical jamming and confident face moves. As you start your ascent, the climb immediately engages you with a right-facing corner, where solid jams fit snugly into cracks before reaching an offwidth segment. For those who opt to skip the wideness, the route offers an alternative with playful, face climbing moves that test balance and technique.

The crux lies in navigating this offwidth section gracefully, which rewards patient climbers with a ledge resting spot, a welcome break to absorb the surroundings. The climb then continues up a low-angled corner, narrower yet steady, pulling you toward a two-bolt anchor that’s slung and equipped with a rap ring for an easy descent. The protection is straightforward and reliable throughout the climb, making it inviting for climbers comfortable with placing cams and nuts.

Dragonfly is an excellent choice for those looking to stretch their trad skills on steady jams while enjoying the distinctive rock of West Creek’s brown sandstone. The approach to The Brown Wall is moderate, set within the wide-open expanse of South Platte, Colorado. Here, clear skies often hover, and a gentle breeze sweeps through the ridge, carrying the crisp mountain air and the occasional call of distant wildlife.

To prepare for Dragonfly, you’ll want a cam rack extending up to a #3 cam, with doubles in smaller sizes (#1 and #2 C4s) for secure placements in the varied crack widths. While a #6 cam is listed as optional, many climbers find face bypass moves fun enough to avoid it altogether—though bringing a #5 cam can prove useful, especially on those transition moves that require solid protection as you clip or move past tricky holds. Comfortable shoes with sticky rubber and a light rack make this route approachable without sacrificing challenge.

Weather in this part of Colorado favors spring through fall climbs, with early mornings providing shade on the brown sandstone wall before the sun climbs overhead. The route’s southeast-facing aspect means the rock warms pleasantly post-sunrise, but afternoon sun can turn the wall into a suntrap; plan your climb accordingly to avoid overheating. Descending is straightforward via rope rappel from the bolted anchor, a quick and safe getaway that makes it a perfect after-work or day-trip objective.

Dragonfly blends technical jams with uncluttered face climbing, crafting an experience that’s equally engaging for emerging trad climbers and those returning for a crisp, moderate climb in a stunning mountain landscape. It’s a climb that invites movement and focus, rewards good gear management, and leaves you with the imposing views stretching over West Creek’s wild terrain. Take your time, trust your gear, and let the climb teach you the dance of cracks and corners on The Brown Wall.

Climber Safety

Watch for occasional loose flakes near the ledge and ensure solid protection before committing to offwidth moves. The rappelling anchor is well set but inspect your gear before descent, particularly in early or late season when conditions can be damp.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Early morning climbs offer cooler temperatures with shade on the wall.

Use doubles in small to medium cams for secure placement throughout the route.

Consider skipping the wide offwidth with the face bypass if you prefer technical face moves over offwidth jamming.

rappel from the bolted anchor for a quick and safe descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating suits intermediate trad climbers comfortable with crack technique, especially offwidth jamming. The grade feels true to its challenge with a solid crux at the offwidth section. Climbers familiar with nearby Thunder Ridge classics will find Dragonfly approachable yet satisfying, with no unexpected soft spots.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack to #3 cams, including doubles for #1 and #2 C4s. A #5 cam is helpful for certain moves, but the #6 cam is optional depending on whether you choose the offwidth or face bypass line.

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Tags

trad
offwidth
crack climbing
face climbing
single pitch
solid protection