"Dr. Dave on Cedar Park’s Main Wall offers a gripping single pitch of technical sport climbing. Precision footwork meets bold runouts in this demanding 72-foot line near Okanagan, British Columbia."
Dr. Dave rises sharply from the Main Wall at Cedar Park, presenting climbers with a demanding yet rewarding 72-foot single pitch that tests strength, balance, and nerve. This British Columbia route begins with a striking white streak etched into the rock, starting from a block tucked just behind a large detached flake. From the ground, the first bolt is within reach—an inviting signal that the climb’s technical nature begins immediately. The approach is marked by a series of pistol squat-style moves, demanding precise footwork and minimal handholds as you negotiate the crux between bolts two and four. The spacing in this section requires controlled confidence, as a noticeable runout unfolds between bolts three and four, giving the route a heady edge that challenges your composure.
After surmounting the crux, climbers reach a small ledge defined by a stoic tree clinging to the rockface’s side. This pause offers a moment to steady your breath before the route veers up the arete. The rock here demands attention—sharp, textured, and unforgiving, with a loose cube just above the ledge quietly daring you to test its stability. Clipping the anchors to the left requires a long draw or a backward reach. This bolt, deliberately placed off the main line, stands as a reminder of the bolters’ care, securing a safe exit despite the challenging terrain. When descending, it’s straightforward to grab this draw while setting up your rappel.
Protection consists of eight well-spaced bolts topped with stout Metolius rap hangers, providing reliable security but requiring climbers to commit fully to movement between bolts. The stern nature of this climb makes it a solid option for those aiming to push into the 5.10 range with some thriller elements thrown in. Expect a rugged rock surface and a setting that rewards focus — no frills, just pure, demanding climbing on solid stone.
Located near the vibrant town of Okanagan, Dr. Dave offers an accessible adventure for climbers looking to test their mettle without the need for a multi-pitch commitment. Whether targeting a firm redpoint or simply enjoying the challenge of a technical sport climb, this route combines practical safety features with a raw, dynamic line that stays true to the character of the Main Wall. Approaching this climb during spring or fall offers moderate temperatures and generally stable weather, making your experience here both intense and enjoyable.
To prepare, climbers should focus on maintaining balance through subtle foot placements, vertical core strength for the crux pistol squats, and mental resilience to handle the runout section calmly. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential, as the footholds are minimal and precise. Hydration and proper warm-up before the climb will keep your body ready for the demanding moves ahead. Whether you're stalking the route for the first time or revisiting this bold line, Dr. Dave delivers an experience that claws at your skills and rewards every inch conquered.
Watch out for the loose cube positioned just above the ledge; avoid grabbing it and clip carefully at the bolts, especially the off-line bolt near the anchors. The runout between bolts three and four requires controlled, confident moves to minimize fall risk.
Begin with a proper warm-up focusing on balance and core strength to handle pistol squats.
Keep your feet precise and sticky; footholds are small and require deliberate placement.
Bring a long quickdraw or extendable runner for clipping the bolt just left of the main line near the anchors.
Plan your descent carefully via rappel, using the Metolius hangers and the off-line draw for safety.
The route is protected by eight bolts equipped with chunky Metolius rap hangers. The bolt line demands confidence in clipping due to some spacing and an off-line runner near the anchors for rappel.
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