"Doobieous Deliverance offers a focused 80-foot trad challenge on Black Wall’s left face. This 5.9 crack climb demands skillful small-cam placements and precise movement through a groove and tight double cracks, perfect for climbers who appreciate technical, gear-intensive routes in a dramatic desert setting."
Doobieous Deliverance climbs a striking section of Black Wall’s left face, offering a pure trad experience suited for those keen on technical crack climbing with a twist. The route ascends approximately 80 feet through an unforgettable groove that demands finesse and precision. From the base, you face a sharp 5.9 pitch that tests your ability to read subtle changes in crack width and place protection on tight tips and narrow seams. The wall’s natural contours invite climbers up and slightly left into a slot-like groove before pushing straight upward through double cracks that reward patience and careful placement.
Black Wall stands poised above the rugged, high desert canyons of Colorado’s Paradox Valley, where the red and beige sandstone projects vertical faces etched by wind and water. The approach navigates boulder-strewn ground beneath towering cliffs shaking off a whisper of sagebrush-scented air. Rock here offers a coarse texture, adding just enough bite for confident edging and jamming—though the climb’s real story unfolds in the small gear placements that keep you thinking through every move.
Expect a straightforward approach from the parking area near Naturita, with well-marked paths guiding you to the base in about 20 minutes. This makes Doobieous Deliverance a perfect pick for a half-day outing where focused climbing is the goal. The route has no intermediate bolts aside from reliable anchors at the top, so bring a rack rich in small cams and micro nuts to ensure steady protection. The quality of protection opportunities demands sharp attention, especially on the narrow cracks where finesse beats brute strength.
For climbers eyeing this route, timing plays a subtle but crucial role. The western aspect means afternoon sun warms the wall, so early mornings or late afternoons provide more comfortable temperatures, especially in the summer months when Colorado’s high desert can bake under intense sun. Fall and spring bring temperate weather and fewer crowds, making the experience on the rock peaceful and focused.
Beyond the climb, Black Wall sits within the broader Paradox Valley climbing scene—an underappreciated area offering solitude and personality far from Colorado’s busier crags. The terrain is raw and rugged, echoing the wild character of the Southwest. Once you summit Doobieous Deliverance, descent involves a cautious downclimb back to the base, requiring steady footwork on exposed ledges. Bringing climbing shoes with sticky rubber and leveraging smart, deliberate movement will keep the descent smooth.
Whether you’re sharpening your trad crack skills or craving a route that blends technical climbing with a touch of desert solitude, Doobieous Deliverance delivers an engaging challenge. It invites you to trust your gear placements and read the rock carefully, all while soaking up sweeping views over the surrounding valley. This pitch is a compact adventure that leaves you eager to explore more of what Black Wall and Paradox Valley have to offer.
Gear placements are crucial since no bolts protect the route except anchors. Watch for loose flakes near the upper cracks and take care on the downclimb, where exposure increases and footing narrows on worn ledges.
Approach the climb early or late in the day to avoid intense afternoon heat.
Focus on precision small cam placements; wide gear won’t fit the thin seams.
Use sticky-rubber climbing shoes for secure foot jamming and edging.
Descend via a careful downclimb, watching for loose rock on narrow ledges.
Bring an assortment of small cams and micro nuts to protect the tight cracks. No bolts except for anchors, so solid gear placement skills are essential.
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