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Don't Go: Pine Cone Dome's Classic Trad Crag

Canon City, Colorado United States
trad crack
bolt protected
single pitch
granite pillar
technical moves
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Don't Go
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Don't Go delivers a focused trad climb on Pine Cone Dome's clean granite, blending solid gear placements with a technical crack and a bolt-protected crux. Ideal for climbers seeking a skill-building challenge in Elevenmile Canyon's quiet but stunning setting."

Don't Go: Pine Cone Dome's Classic Trad Crag

At the edge of Pine Cone Dome, amid the rugged landscape of Elevenmile Canyon, lies Don't Go—a deceptively straightforward trad climb that offers both a physical challenge and a moment to connect deeply with Colorado's granite heart. This single-pitch, 70-foot route starts just right of the popular "She's a Moaner" and immediately invites you to lock into a striking 10-foot pillar that rises sharply from the slab. The rock here feels solid and alive beneath your hands, the coarse granite edges promising friction as you ascend. A short corner breathes life into the climb, where the rhythm of movement finds a temporary rest on a comfortable stance.

The route moves steadily upward, requiring a blend of power and technique as you clip your first bolt before committing to a well-protected crack system. The crack’s holds are firm, offering confident placements that keep your senses engaged—grip, balance, and focus all coming into play. Midway up, you reach another bolt, a subtle but welcome checkpoint that underscores the climb’s thoughtful protection. Above this, the anchor waits, two bolts ready to secure your success.

Don't Go isn’t about flamboyant moves or jaw-dropping exposure; instead, it presents a clean, honest line where every hold counts and trusting your gear is key. Small gear placements pair neatly with two quickdraws, streamlining your rack and letting you concentrate on movement rather than overthinking protection. The approach is straightforward, and the surrounding area offers a quiet refuge from the busier corridors of Colorado climbing.

Climbing here is a sensory experience—the rough texture of granite against fingertips, the quiet shush of wind over the dome, and the sparse pine trees punctuating the horizon. The route's moderate 5.8 rating masks a crux that demands focus, making it a rewarding climb for those honing trad skills or looking to sample the character of Elevenmile Canyon’s granite walls. Prepare for cooler air and changing light as the day moves, with morning climbs catching shadows before the sun warms the slab, making holds more inviting.

Gear-wise, the combination of small cams and nuts is a must, with deliberate placements essential to secure the climb’s pacing and safety. Quickdraws for the bolts smooth transitions and ease clipping at the crux. Given the approach and descent, sturdy footwear and a light pack will keep you nimble on the slabs and trail.

Don’t underestimate "Don't Go"—its name is a gentle dare. It invites climbers to test their technique and presence on rock that commands respect but rewards dedication. Whether you’re refreshing trad fundamentals or just passing through Pine Cone Dome, this route offers a concise taste of Elevenmile Canyon’s quieter climbing spots, blending a crisp, tactile experience with the raw atmosphere of Colorado’s highcountry.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the slab approach—wet or loose rock can reduce traction. Gear placements require attention; small cams must be well seated to maintain security through the subtle crux sequence.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler slab conditions and avoid afternoon sun on exposed surfaces.

Pack a minimal rack focusing on small gear sizes and two quickdraws for overhead protection.

Approach via the Pine Cone Dome trailhead; expect a 10-minute walk over firm, rocky footing.

Check weather before climbing—granite can become slick with moisture quickly after rain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Although rated 5.8, Don't Go carries a tight crux near the bolt that demands solid technique and confident gear placement. The grade feels accurate but packs enough punch to keep intermediate climbers engaged. Compared to nearby routes, it offers a straightforward challenge with a smooth flow absent of tricky runouts.

Gear Requirements

Small cams and nuts complement two quickdraws for clipping the bolts. Protection is straightforward but relies on precise small gear placements near the crux and anchor.

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Tags

trad crack
bolt protected
single pitch
granite pillar
technical moves