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Dolphin Girl Trad Climb at Mother's Buttress

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
right-facing dihedral
shallow chimney
trad gear essential
unpaved approach
bolted anchors
adventure climbing
second pitch loose
summer recommended
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Dolphin Girl
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dolphin Girl offers a two-pitch trad climb in Colorado’s Mother's Buttress that balances accessible climbing with a wild edge. With two approaches on the first pitch and an adventurous, uncleaned second pitch, it challenges trad climbers ready for a blend of solid placements and route-finding in a rugged canyon setting."

Dolphin Girl Trad Climb at Mother's Buttress

Dolphin Girl stands as a compelling trad climb within the rugged contours of Mother's Buttress, seated in the heart of Colorado's Unaweep Granite. This route offers two distinct starts on the first pitch, each challenging in its own right. The left option threads a shallow chimney that demands precise protection skills, while the right route begins just above a solitary tree, guiding you into a right-facing dihedral speckled with ledges. The initial pitch rewards with a sturdy, bolted anchor, a welcome marker before the true grit begins.

Ascending the second pitch shifts the experience into more adventurous terrain. At roughly 5.8 to 5.9 difficulty, this pitch remains uncleared, demanding serious route-finding and confidence in placing protection where bolts are sparse. A bolted anchor with a rappel ring provides a reliable endpoint, but the stretch between demands respect and caution. This adventure climbing section offers a rougher edge to the route, making it unsuitable for those less familiar with loose rock or uncertain gear placements. While a potential third pitch exists, its complexity and hardness put it firmly in the domain of the seasoned climber willing to venture beyond the beaten path.

The rock itself is solid Unaweep Granite, offering good friction and well-formed features. However, protection requires careful selection and thoughtful placement; bringing a single rack of cams from 0.3 to #1, doubled #2 and #3 sets, plus nuts, is essential. The absence of many fixed anchors on pitch two means followers must be fully prepared for traditional protection techniques.

Accessibility to the climb is straightforward, with the approach weaving through Mother’s Buttress’s main canyon. The surrounding landscape commands attention—the canyon’s rugged walls bearing witness to decades of climbing history while the high desert terrain warms to the sun during the day. The route’s aspect allows for climbing in full sun, making spring and fall the most agreeable seasons to take it on, with temperatures that support long days on the rock.

Whether you come to Dolphin Girl for solid climbing or to savor the Colorado backcountry’s quiet pulse, preparation is key. Water, layered clothing, and solid footwear are must-haves, as the climb’s exposure and lack of shade mean managing sun and heat effectively. The route’s two pitches come together as an accessible yet adventurous objective—balanced between technical climbing and exploratory adventure. For those confident in their trad skills, this climb reveals a slice of Mother’s Buttress that rewards patience with crisp holds, varied moves, and a stirring canyon setting.

To descend, rappels from bolted anchors offer the cleanest exit, though downclimbing is possible only for experienced climbers familiar with the terrain. Given the climb’s partly uncleaned second pitch, a cautious approach and thorough pre-climb planning enhance both safety and enjoyment. Dolphin Girl is an invitation to combine solid climbing technique with a readiness to embrace the unpredictable, in a place where granite walls both challenge and compel.

Climber Safety

Pitch two’s lack of bolts and presence of loose rock require cautious movement and solid protection skills. Test each hold, place extra gear, and avoid leading this pitch if unfamiliar with adventure trad climbing. Additionally, watch for sun exposure on approach and be mindful of slick granite in wet conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Start on the right side of pitch one for better protection and easier moves.

Bring sun protection and water—there’s limited shade on the route.

Be prepared for loose rock on pitch two; move carefully and test holds.

Use the bolted anchors with rap rings for safe and efficient rappels.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Dolphin Girl’s difficulty sits in a moderate range but leans slightly stiff on the second pitch due to uncleaned terrain and sparse fixed protection. The crux involves trusting gear placements in an adventurous landscape, making it feel more challenging than a straightforward 5.8. Compared to nearby routes, it’s accessible yet demands a level of comfort with gear and route-finding.

Gear Requirements

A single rack from 0.3 to #1 cams, doubling up on #2 and #3 sizes, paired with a set of nuts, will cover the protection needs. Expect to rely on placing your own gear, especially on the second pitch where bolts are minimal.

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Tags

right-facing dihedral
shallow chimney
trad gear essential
unpaved approach
bolted anchors
adventure climbing
second pitch loose
summer recommended