"A brief yet rewarding sport climb along the Piedra River, Dirty Phil offers a 30-foot pitch of steady movement with a key crux low on the wall. Perfect for climbers seeking a quick dose of technical climbing close to Pagosa Springs."
Dirty Phil presents a compact but engaging sport climb along the lesser-known east side of the Piedra River corridor near Pagosa Springs, Colorado. This 30-foot route offers climbers a quick taste of vertical movement framed by the rugged geology of southwestern Colorado’s rocky outcrops. The approach sets the tone—a short hike through forested terrain that opens up to an exposed ledge beside the Peter Pillar, where the climb begins. As you step onto the ledge, the rock’s texture immediately commands attention; while not pristine, it challenges your ability to navigate pockets and edges, particularly near the base where the crux awaits. The initial moves require finesse and balance as you clip into the first bolt perched right at the ledge’s lip.
Above, the climbing smooths slightly, but the rock’s character remains rough around the edges, adding an adventurous quality to the ascent. The protection relies on three well-placed bolts and a solid anchor, making it approachable yet requiring careful clipping. At just one pitch, Dirty Phil fits neatly into a half-day of climbing, whether you’re warming up for longer routes or seeking a straightforward ascent with a bit of edge.
Located at latitude 37.4147 and longitude -107.1951, the route is easily accessible and lies within a quiet stretch of the Piedra River, where the sound of rushing water and the whispering pines set a natural soundtrack for the climb. Pagosa Springs serves as the perfect staging point, offering local amenities and a welcoming community of outdoor enthusiasts. The route’s 5.8 rating strikes a comfortable middle ground—moderately challenging but manageable for climbers ready to link moves without excessive technical demands.
For those preparing to climb, sturdy shoes with good edging capacity will help tackle the chossy spots, while a moderate rack focusing on quickdraws suffices thanks to the established bolts. Timing your visit during spring through fall ensures dry rock and pleasant temperatures, as the route’s south-facing aspect catches ample sun but can become hot in peak summer. After topping out, a short, simple downclimb brings you safely back to the ledge, letting you enjoy the quiet wilderness without complication.
Dirty Phil is not just a route; it’s a slice of Colorado’s climbing spirit—raw, unpretentious, and comfortably challenging. Whether you’re looking to polish your sport climbing skills or add a scenic pitch along the Piedra River to your logbook, this climb offers an honest and accessible experience that rewards attention to detail and respect for the mountain's character.
Careful of loose rock near the base and around bolt clips. Though protection is solid, brushing holds before engaging them can prevent unexpected slips. The ledge at the start is narrow—mind your footing when prepping to clip the first bolt.
Approach via the trail on the east side of Piedra River—expect a short but rocky walk.
Wear shoes with stiff edging to handle the chossier lower section effectively.
Climb in spring, summer, or fall for stable weather and dry conditions.
Stay aware of loose rock; brushing holds before clipping is recommended.
Bring a light sport rack with a few quickdraws. Three bolts protect the route with a reliable anchor at the top. Emphasis is on clipping smoothly and trusting the established protection.
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