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Dirty Girl: A Crisp Introduction to Clear Creek Canyon

Golden, Colorado United States
mixed climbing
sport
trad gear
single pitch
warm-up climb
bolted face
gear finish
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dirty Girl
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dirty Girl delivers a sharp, accessible climb blending sport and trad gear on Clear Creek Canyon’s Rebel Wall. Perfect as a warm-up, it offers textured 5.8 climbing with a manageable gear finish and stunning alpine views."

Dirty Girl: A Crisp Introduction to Clear Creek Canyon

Situated on the Rebel Wall in the rugged expanse of Clear Creek Canyon, Dirty Girl offers climbers a concise yet engaging ascent that blends sport and traditional climbing with a refreshing straightforwardness. Stretching seventy feet, this route serves as an ideal warm-up, priming your muscles and focus for the more demanding climbs scattered throughout the canyon.

From the base, the rock invites you with a textured face that hovers around a 5.8 difficulty, encouraging thoughtful footwork and steady hand placements without overwhelming intimidation. Four well-placed bolts secure the lower section, granting confidence while climbing the initially bolted face. As you reach the upper twenty feet, the challenge transitions sharply—the fixed pin signals a gear-dependent finish that demands savvy placement of cams and nuts before linking to a pair of open shuts at the anchor.

The climb's position on Rebel Wall means the rock is generally solid, boasting familiar Colorado sandstone grit that offers reliable friction. You’ll notice the wall’s orientation captures morning sunlight before moving into afternoon shade, making early starts favorable to avoid heat on warmer days. Clear Creek Canyon’s alpine backdrop punctuates your ascent, where distant pines whisper with a dry breeze and the canyon’s walls frame the climb with rugged character.

Access to Dirty Girl is straightforward. A well-kept approach trail winds steadily for about twenty minutes from the main parking area near Golden, Colorado. The terrain is a mix of packed dirt and scattered rock, framed by scrub oak and piñon pines that quietly mark the passage. GPS coordinates place you right at the trailhead, facilitating easy navigation.

Protection is mixed but manageable if you come prepared. The bolted face is reassuring for sport climbers, but the upper gear-intensive section needs solid traditional rack choices—consider smaller to medium cams that fit the narrower cracks and seams, as gear can be a bit tight in the final moves. The fixed pin adds an extra layer of security but does not replace the necessity of good gear.

After topping out, descent is simple: a short walk down the established trail circles back to the main parking spot, letting you conserve energy for your next endeavor.

For those looking to warm up or gain confidence on mixed routes, Dirty Girl is an accessible climb set against a stunning Colorado backdrop that promises practical challenge without overreach. Prepare your rack with a mix of bolts and cams, time your climb for early daylight, and let the canyon’s rugged character sharpen your focus as you ascend.

Climber Safety

While the bolts on the lower section are reassuring, the last 20 feet require experienced gear placements. Pay close attention to rock quality on the trad portion and double-check your placements before proceeding to avoid any unsettling swings.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb in morning sun before the wall moves into shade.

Bring a rack with small to medium cams for the upper gear placements.

Wear shoes with solid edging for the textured 5.8 face.

Approach trail is well-marked but rocky—good hiking shoes recommended.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Rated at about 5.9-, the climb sits comfortably on the easier side of the spectrum but includes a subtle crux where the transition from bolts to gear demands a steady approach. The grade feels fair without being soft; the upper segment’s placement challenge nudges the effort level subtly upward compared to purely bolted climbs.

Gear Requirements

The route features four bolts and a fixed pin across the lower 50 feet, then transitions into a traditional gear section requiring careful placements over the last 20 feet to reach a pair of open shuts at the anchor.

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Tags

mixed climbing
sport
trad gear
single pitch
warm-up climb
bolted face
gear finish