Direct South Ridge stands as a compelling alternative to the classic South Ridge line on Notchtop in Rocky Mountain National Park. This route unspools over roughly seven pitches of engaging trad and alpine climbing, weaving through steep terrain with a generous share of crack climbing that champions Colorado’s distinctive style. From the moment you leave the SE corner of the mountain and follow a path to the ramp cutting rightward, the experience demands your focus. You move onto ledges that stretch out just under the arete, offering striking exposure and access to a line that generally avoids the ridge’s crest itself.

The opening pitches invite a moderate climb, topping out at 5.6 with ample opportunities for simul-climbing if your party is comfortable moving quickly. These pitches feel like a warm-up, but the moment the wall steepens is where the route truly reveals its grit, especially on pitch two. Here, a hand and fist crack nestles under a right-facing dihedral, leading to a demanding roof with moves that require commitment and technique. This section is the crux and scores a stubborn 5.9, presenting a natural and satisfying challenge. The crack beyond the roof—reminiscent of a fist jam route—exudes classic Colorado aesthetics and invites exploration but remains off the beaten path for those sticking to the main beta.

Pitch three climbs straight up a 5.8 crack, delivering solid climbing to a ledge that perches on the far side of the arete. The seamless combination of pitches two and three might appeal to those moving efficiently. From this midpoint, climbers face critical decisions. One variation follows the direct path up the west face toward a 5.6 chimney nestled high on the line, a hold that many find elusive due to its distance leftward. The chimney leads to a belay positioned right on the arete and requires attentive route-finding.

Alternative variations include a tighter 5.9 slot closer to the main line and a rumored 10+/11 seam whose presence challenges climbers confident in higher-stakes placements. Higher pitches reward with steep, clean cracks that maintain the moderate grading while keeping adrenaline levels elevated.

The original finish shifts rightward after pitch three, where a 30-foot traverse takes you across a slab before ascending a sequence of 5.8 cracks and corners to a large dihedral belay. The final pitch climbs this dihedral at 5.7 to the summit of Notchtop’s distinctive notch spire, completing an ascent that mixes solid movement with scenic alpine exposure.

Gear recommendations focus on a standard rack up to a #3 Camalot or similar large cam. Carrying two #3s provides a safety net for longer runouts or tricky placements, particularly in the steeper crux sections where protection is sparse. The route’s alpine nature means you’ll also want sturdy footwear, layered clothing for quick weather swings, and plenty of water given the rapid pace this grade encourages.

In addition to offering a solid climbing challenge, Direct South Ridge immerses you in the towering wilderness of RMNP, with sweeping views that shift as you ascend. The mountain’s character feels alive in the wind gusts and sun-baked rock, daring you forward while the elevation reminds you this is a place where commitment meets reward.

Navigating approach and descent requires keen attention. The access trail from the southeast corner of Notchtop is brief and moderate but not without route-finding challenges, especially if snow lingers early or late in the season. After topping out, the descent returns via a rappel or careful downclimb, demanding caution and a readiness for alpine conditions.

This route is well suited to fit climbers who seek a classic RMNP alpine experience with a manageable grade and plenty of variety, from gentle hand jams to steep crack sequences. Whether moving fast over the easy pitches or focusing on the challenging roof and crack system, Direct South Ridge rewards with a blend of exposure, technique, and fulfill the promise of a day well spent in Colorado’s rock.