"Diagnosis Cliffs offers an inviting range of moderate routes in the heart of Bishop’s Cyanide Cliffs. This accessible, south-facing area basks in sunlight for much of the day, featuring a mix of slabby faces and steep challenges, including the standout Burning Sensation."
At an elevation of 7,285 feet within California’s Eastern Sierra, Diagnosis Cliffs stands as the gateway to the complex rock labyrinth known as Cyanide Cliffs just left of Pratt’s Crack Canyon. This south-facing wall draws climbers eager for a climb bathed in sunlight, making it an ideal destination when cooler days settle over Bishop’s Pine Creek Canyon.
Approach is straightforward, rewarding a brief 10-minute hike from the large lower Pratt’s Crack parking area. Following a well-marked, cairned trail, you'll navigate a split in the path where taking the right fork leads directly to the start of Main Line on Tai Tower. This initial approach gives access to an intriguing combination of sub-areas: the lower left region near Main Line, and upper left and close-by right sections marked by distinctive geological features such as a striking large vertical black dike just right of Main Line. The layout invites exploration across moderate crack climbs and off-vertical slabs that challenge footwork and balance.
The climbs here offer a well-rounded experience catering to climbers who want quality moderate routes, with anchors firmly set for comfort and security. Among the classics you'll find Cyanara, Castor, and Pollux, each falling in the 5.8 to 5.9 range and ideal for refining technique or enjoying a solid line with satisfying movement. For those seeking steeper, more intense challenges, Burning Sensation rises as an upper right test piece at 5.12b, demanding precision and power while offering one of the most rewarding ascents within the cliffs.
The sun-facing aspect means routes warm nicely throughout the day, especially during cooler months – perfect for that shoulder season when shade is scarce in the surrounding canyon. However, summer afternoons can bring heat, so timing your climb earlier or late in the day helps maintain comfort. Nearby Pine Creek Canyon’s forested approaches add a refreshing touch of green contrast against the cliffs’ granite tone, enriching the sensory experience.
Diagnosis Cliffs presents an inviting balance between adventure and accessibility, with a relatively short approach and solid rock quality inviting both returning locals and visiting climbers to savor the area’s unique charm. Keep in mind the routes mostly span moderate grades, so the area is very approachable for climbers with some experience or those looking to expand their trad repertoire without jumping into the highest difficulties. This part of the Bishop Area is a highlight when you want to combine a mellow hike, varied climbing styles, and impressive desert-landscape views.
Planning your trip here calls for standard trad rack essentials and a readiness for varied terrain – from slabby sections requiring precise foot placements to steeper crack sequences testing your hand jams and finger locks. The minimal traffic and approachable routes offer an excellent alternative to busier crags, making Diagnosis Cliffs a prime objective for an afternoon escape or multi-day climbing visit.
To get the most from your visit, use the large parking lot at Pratt’s Crack as your basecamp, take the right fork on the trail early, and watch for the large black dike as your visual anchor. Whether you’re shooting for steady moderate cracks or the more daring Burning Sensation, the rock waits with a clear invitation and sunlight to warm your efforts.
Nearby areas like Barbershop and Tai Tower promise more climbing terrain, so this zone is well suited to climbers who want to experience a rich slab and crack climbing mix inside a friendly but rugged Eastern Sierra setting.
Although the approach trail is well established and easy to follow, keep an eye on route anchors and slab footing especially on steeper climbs like Burning Sensation. The rock is generally solid but slab sections require deliberate foot placements; be cautious of loose dirt near the base after rain. The descent is via walk-off; ensure you remain oriented at the trail junction to avoid getting off-route.
Park at the lower Pratt's Crack lot; the walk-in is less than 10 minutes with well-marked trails.
Take the right fork at the trail split to reach Main Line and the lower left sector efficiently.
Early morning or late afternoon climbs offer more comfortable temperatures due to southern exposure.
Look for the large black vertical dike near Main Line as a key navigation feature.
Approach via large Pratt’s Crack parking lot with clear trail markings. Moderate trad rack recommended for crack and slab protection. Expect longer gear placements on steeper routes like Burning Sensation. Routes average about 80 feet.
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