Climbing the Upper Right of Diagnosis Cliffs - Steep Sport Challenges in Eastern Sierra

Bishop, California
steep
sport climbing
single pitch
technical
alcove
Eastern Sierra
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Pine Creek Canyon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Discover the Upper Right sector at Diagnosis Cliffs, home to some of the steepest routes in Pine Creek Canyon. Highlighted by the demanding sport line Burning Sensation (5.12b), this area offers a compact yet rewarding climbing experience for those drawn to technical and powerful moves."

Climbing the Upper Right of Diagnosis Cliffs - Steep Sport Challenges in Eastern Sierra

The Upper Right area of Diagnosis Cliffs stands out as a steep, adrenaline-charged corner of Pine Creek Canyon’s climbing landscape. Situated in California’s Eastern Sierra near Bishop, this sector offers a handful of routes that dial up the intensity, making it a prime destination for climbers seeking sharp, technical sport challenges beyond the usual fare. At an elevation of 7,283 feet, the environment here is imbued with the crisp mountain air typical of the region’s granite walls.

Burning Sensation is the crown jewel of Upper Right - a steepish sport route that commands attention purely on its own merits. Graded at 5.12b, it demands precise technique and endurance, inviting climbers to engage fully with its bold moves and vertical to slightly overhanging profile. Beyond this standout climb, the remaining routes are more varied, offering a taste of mixed styles that complement the focused intensity of Burning Sensation.

Approaching this pocket of climbing is an adventure that begins by following the shared trail to Diagnosis’s upper left sector. From the recognizable small tree landmark, climbers traverse around the corner to the right, then continue a short scramble past the base of Placebo. This approach leads to a natural alcove a bit higher up, where the routes of Upper Right rise directly before you. The scramble is straightforward for those comfortable with uneven terrain and light bushwhacking - a practical entrée to the climbing experience without unnecessary hassle.

The wall’s orientation ensures that the prime climbing window stretches comfortably from late spring through early fall, taking advantage of moderate weather often found in the Eastern Sierra. While detailed weather data is sparse here, the area’s mid-elevation setting means mornings can start cool and clear, with afternoon sun warming the rock to provide excellent friction and dry conditions essential for tough sport routes.

Equipment-wise, climbers should come prepared for sport climbing with a standard rack of quickdraws and ropes. With only a few routes in this slice of Diagnosis Cliffs, it’s an ideal spot for focused cragging sessions rather than marathon days. No specialized gear is mandated, but a mindful approach to rope management and anchoring is crucial given the steeper nature of the climbs.

Safety is key where the rock pitches steeply and movement is technical. Take extra care on the scramble approach—loose debris and uneven footing require swift attention to detail. Once on the routes, clip carefully and maintain awareness of the protection placements. The compact selection also means lowered risk of route confusion while climbing but stay alert around the edges of the alcove, where ledges and drop-offs are nearby.

For those who value quality over quantity, Upper Right’s combination of steepness, a standout sport climb, and a serene alpine backdrop places it firmly on the radar for higher-level visiting climbers. It blends the thrill of engaging terrain with practical access, creating a compact but memorable climbing retreat within the broader Diagnosis Cliffs area.

Classic climbs here include Burning Sensation (5.12b), highly rated among seasoned climbers for its demanding nature and sharp sequences. This route encapsulates the spirit of the Upper Right sector: direct, intense, and testing the mettle of every climber who steps up.

The descent is manageable via downclimbing or walking off on nearby ridge lines with care. Always scout your exit to avoid loose rock or disorienting scrambles, especially as light fades.

In sum, Upper Right offers a rugged slice of the Sierra Nevada’s climbing riches. It’s a place where adventurers can challenge themselves on steep sport routes, enjoy the purity of high-elevation cragging, and return with a sense of having pushed their limits in one of California’s lesser-known climbing pockets.

Climber Safety

The scramble to Upper Right can be steep with uneven terrain—watch your footing carefully. On the routes, ensure all clipping and anchor placements are secure as the steepness increases fall factor potential. Leave no loose rock near belay ledges to maintain safety for climbers below.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start the approach from the Diagnosis upper left trailhead for easiest access.

Look for the small tree before traversing around the corner to find the alcove.

Bring sun protection for afternoon climbs, as the wall gets direct sun later in the day.

Scout the descent route carefully to avoid loose rock and steep drop-offs.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Burning Sensation at 5.12b represents a solid sport challenge that demands precise technique. The area's grade overall is on the stiffer side due to steep walls and technical moves, appealing more to climbers looking for performance routes rather than moderate or beginner climbs. Compared to other Eastern Sierra crags, Upper Right packs intensity into a smaller collection of climbs, making each ascent feel purposeful and challenging.

Gear Requirements

Standard sport rack including quickdraws and rope is sufficient. No specialized gear required for these steep yet compact routes.

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Tags

steep
sport climbing
single pitch
technical
alcove
Eastern Sierra