"Devo is a hands-on, single-pitch trad climb along Hawk-Eagle Ridge’s rugged walls in Eldorado Canyon. It offers a mix of technical crack moves and a committing roof crux that tests your grit."
Devo offers an intense, single-pitch trad climb carved into the rugged hawk-eagle ridge of Eldorado Canyon, just outside Boulder, Colorado. From the moment you step beneath its long, left-facing corner, the rock dares you into a sequence of bold, calculated moves. The climb’s character is built around the bombay slot — a narrow crack demanding body tension and precise footwork — followed by a scrappy push upward to negotiate a stubborn dead tree perched mid-route. As you progress, a rotten band invites a rightward traverse beneath a low roof, where the rock’s worn texture challenges your confidence and balance.
Standing on a precarious pedestal, you pull through a short overlap, your hands finding tenuous holds on rock that feels less-than-solid to the left. The crux appears as a small tree clings stubbornly above the second roof, forcing a committed, technical move to surmount it. The belay anchors here offer some relief after an engaging battle with the rock’s character.
Devo isn’t a climb you’ll find crowded, but that’s part of its raw allure. It rewards those drawn to adventure over popularity — the kind of route that tests both nerve and skill amid Eldorado’s classic sandstone walls. With a length of 110 feet and a 5.8 PG13 rating, it strikes a balance between accessible challenge and serious commitment, especially as the protection places demand attentive gear management.
The approach sets the tone for the climb—expect rocky, uneven terrain that also showcases sweeping views of the canyon’s rugged contours. Eldorado Canyon’s reputation for quality sandstone combined with this climb’s unique features makes it a must for trad climbers looking to push themselves outside the bustling, well-trodden routes of the main areas.
Plan your climb during the shoulder seasons of late spring or early fall, when temperatures tide between warm sunlight and crisp mountain air. Wearing sturdy, sticky-soled shoes and packing a rack from small nuts up to 3 inches will prepare you for the protection challenges this route demands. Hydrate well, as the sun can intensify quickly on exposed sections.
Devo channels the spirit of classic Eldorado trad: it’s raw, real, and richly rewarding. Whether you’re aiming to sharpen your crack skills or seeking a climb with distinct character, this route delivers adventure grounded in practical experience. Treat the rock respectfully, stay mindful of the fragile spots, and embrace the climb’s gritty personality. The canyon won’t give its secrets easily, but with a focused approach, Devo promises a climb that lingers in memory.
Watch for fragile rock near the rotten band and the slabby pedestal area. Protection can be sparse through the roof sections, so deliberate gear placements and cautious moves are critical. Avoid climbing after heavy rain, as sandstone weakens when wet.
Approach early in the day to avoid afternoon sun on exposed sections.
Check gear placements carefully on loose rock near the rotten band and roofs.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for the slabby pedestal and overlap moves.
Hydrate thoroughly before the climb—the route sees limited shade.
A standard trad rack covering small nuts to 3-inch cams is essential here. Protection opportunities are straightforward but require attention near fragile rock sections and tricky placements around the roof and band features.
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