HomeClimbingDevil May Care

Devil May Care: A Gateway to Sport Climbing in Skaha

Penticton, Canada
sport climbing
5.6
single pitch
beginner friendly
granite face
sunny exposure
Length: 90 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Devil May Care
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Devil May Care provides a welcoming lead climb along a bolted face in Skaha’s Lower Red Tail sector. Its approachable 5.6 grade and consistent bolts make it an excellent choice to sharpen sport climbing basics while soaking in the dry warmth of the Okanagan outdoors."

Devil May Care: A Gateway to Sport Climbing in Skaha

Just outside the vibrant town of Skaha, perched in the Lower Red Tail sector of British Columbia’s Okanagan region, Devil May Care offers a straightforward introduction to the rhythm and nuance of sport climbing. This single-pitch route, stretching 90 feet up a gently textured face, demands neither raw power nor extreme technical skill, making it an ideal step for climbers looking to hone their lead skills in a real rock environment. The wall’s sun-warmed granite invites hands and feet to settle comfortably on well-placed holds, while the line’s consistent bolt spacing ensures a secure progression without over-arming.

The climb threads upward through nine solid bolts, terminating at a well-maintained anchor just above the seventh bolt, with an additional set extending to the upper anchor for those who want to top out fully. The granite here projects subtle features—a series of edges and crimps that encourage mindful footwork and careful planning with each move. As you ascend, the air carries the quiet hum of Okanagan’s natural flow: occasional breezes rustling dry grass below and distant murmurs from the surrounding hills. Although modest in challenge, the route’s open exposure provides a fresh perspective on the scale and grace of the Red Tail area’s rock formations.

Approaching Devil May Care involves a short walk from the well-marked Skaha climbing hub, crossing over light brush paths that transition smoothly to rock. The trail is accessible, making it suitable for climbers of all ages and preparation levels. Once at the base, climbers will find ample space to gear up and chat, with panoramic views stretching from vineyard-lined valleys to rolling hills marked by evergreen patches.

This route is a practical choice for anyone eager to gain confidence leading bolts and managing quickdraws without the pressure of extreme difficulty. With a grade of 5.6, it feels approachable but not trivial, gently nudging climbers to refine movement, body positioning, and rope management. Nearby amenities in Skaha provide convenient options for hydration and refueling after your ascent, helping maintain energy for a full day of exploration.

When planning a climb here, timing is key. Early morning or late afternoon sessions help avoid the midday heat common in summer months, while cooler seasons offer crisp air that sharpens concentration but demands additional layers. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential to exploit the slabby holds effectively, and a helmet is recommended to ward off occasional rockfall from the face above.

Devil May Care blends a welcoming atmosphere with solid climbing fundamentals, all set in a landscape that encourages thoughtful engagement and appreciation of the rock’s character. For those building foundational sport climbing skills or seeking a relaxed day under the Okanagan sun, this route marks a fine destination to test resolve and enjoy the steady pulse of the vertical world.

Climber Safety

Although well-bolted, remain alert for loose rock near the upper sections, especially when top roping or cleaning anchors. The approach paths are clear but watch for uneven terrain and loose gravel underfoot.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Aim to climb early morning or late afternoon to avoid peak sun exposure.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to maximize grip on the slabby granite holds.

A helmet is advisable due to occasional loose rock higher up on the face.

Bring water and snacks; facilities are nearby but not directly at the crag.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:At 5.6, Devil May Care sits comfortably for climbers gaining lead experience but offers subtle challenges that prevent it from feeling too easy. The rating is straightforward, with no hidden crux, making it a reliable step up in difficulty for newcomers. Compared to other climbs in the Red Tail area, it is on the easier end and excellent for honing steady movement and bolt clipping technique.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by approximately nine bolts leading to a bolted anchor at the top. An intermediate anchor sits near bolt seven, allowing for an early belay or top-rope setup. Bring a full set of quickdraws to clip smoothly, and a standard sport climbing rack suffices.

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Tags

sport climbing
5.6
single pitch
beginner friendly
granite face
sunny exposure