HomeClimbingDespicable Duck

Despicable Duck: A Beginner Sport Climb in Tuolumne Meadows

Lee Vining, California United States
slab climbing
glass polish granite
beginner sport
friction
single pitch
yosemite
tuolumne meadows
Length: 130 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Despicable Duck
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Despicable Duck serves as a perfect introduction to the polished granite slabs of Tuolumne Meadows. With a single pitch blending easy crack climbing and technical slab moves, it offers a manageable challenge and valuable practice in friction technique."

Despicable Duck: A Beginner Sport Climb in Tuolumne Meadows

Despicable Duck offers an inviting introduction to the unique slab and polished granite of Tuolumne Meadows. This single-pitch sport climb stretches approximately 130 feet across a glistening granite face shaped by glacier polish and weathered erosion. From the first moves up a diagonal crack that angles left, you’ll experience the subtle friction dynamics that distinguish Tuolumne climbing—where smoothed rock demands balance and precision over brute strength.

The climb begins with a straightforward crack feature, roughly rated 5.4, where a #2 cam can be placed for additional security before reaching the first fixed bolt. Beyond this, the route flows between sleek, glassy patches interspersed with delicate edges and worn plates, requiring focused footwork and controlled movements. As you advance through eight bolts, the rock shifts from gentle slab to a short but definite steepening, marked by a crux around 5.8. This section challenges you to maintain body tension and read the subtle contours that the glacier left behind.

After surmounting the steeper pitch, the route eases into an upper slab with easier climbing leading to the anchor station equipped with two 3/8" bolts and rap rings. Descending from here, you can choose between a standard rappel with double ropes totaling about 40 meters or an easier third-class downclimb toward the east, which also offers an alternate approach option via ramps and cracks. This makes Despicable Duck not only a practical climb for beginners but a flexible choice for those looking to develop slab technique in Yosemite’s cooler high country.

Approaching the route is a gentle walk from the Tuolumne Meadows access points at Daffy Hill, with clear pathfinding through alpine meadows and granite slabs. The route’s eastward-facing wall captures morning sun but offers cooling shade as the day progresses, making spring through early fall the optimal seasons for ascents. Climbing footwear with sticky rubber is essential here to negotiate the smooth granite, and bringing a #2 cam will provide extra peace of mind on the lower crack section before the bolts take over.

While Despicable Duck doesn't stretch your endurance with multiple pitches, it demands attentiveness to friction climbing fundamentals—foot placement, weight shifts, and balance—all framed by one of Yosemite’s calm and scenic climbing zones. Whether you’re honing your slab skills or introducing a new partner to Yosemite’s signature granite, this route strikes a rewarding balance between accessible effort and technical learning. Keep an eye on weather, as rain or wet rock quickly erodes friction, and always double-check your anchors before rappel.

Climber Safety

Granite slabs here can be unforgiving if wet, so avoid climbing in damp or rainy conditions. The polished surface demands precise foot placement to prevent slips, especially on the steeper upper section. Rappelling requires two ropes of about 40 meters; double-check gear and anchors before descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length130 feet

Local Tips

Wear shoes with excellent rubber for smooth granite friction.

Avoid climbing after rain; wet slabs become dangerously slick.

Consider an early start to benefit from mild morning sun on the wall.

Use the east-side cracks and ramps for a less technical approach or top-rope setup.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating here feels just right for introducing slab friction techniques. While not overly stiff, the route’s crux demands attentive footwork and a steady hand. Compared to more vertical Yosemite classics, this climb emphasizes delicate balance over raw power, making it ideal for climbers transitioning from cracks to slab.

Gear Requirements

Bring 8 quickdraws to clip the bolts, plus a #2 cam for the initial crack section. Anchors feature fixed bolts with rap rings for descent. Two ropes totaling 40 meters allow a comfortable rappel back down.

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Tags

slab climbing
glass polish granite
beginner sport
friction
single pitch
yosemite
tuolumne meadows