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Desperation at Croissant Wall: A Technical Test on British Columbia’s Okanagan Rock

Cedar Park, Canada
boulder crux
roof
technical sequence
sport climbing
Southern exposure
Okanagan granite
Length: 82 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Desperation
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Desperation challenges climbers with a compact but intense sequence on Croissant Wall’s granite. A low boulder crux branches into two distinct beta options before a powerful roof-top finish makes this 82-foot ascent a rewarding sport climb in British Columbia’s scenic Okanagan."

Desperation at Croissant Wall: A Technical Test on British Columbia’s Okanagan Rock

Desperation carves a bold line up Croissant Wall’s weathered face, offering a compact but fierce challenge for sport climbers in the heart of British Columbia’s Okanagan region. This route presents an engaging mix of precise movement and strategic footwork across 82 feet of vertical terrain that demands focus from the opening moves. From the ground, the climb immediately grabs your attention with a distinct boulder crux low on the wall—bolts three and four stand as critical checkpoints where choices shape your ascent. Clipping bolt three places you at a tactical fork: veer left and grapple a demanding sequence of crimps and slopers pushing into the 5.11c/d envelope, or veer right for a slightly less intense, 5.11b variation that comes with its own delicate hand traverse and a launching move to a key bucket hold. Both options test patience and power in equal measure.

Once past this technical threshold, the route eases briefly, guiding you to a no-hands rest beneath a prominent roof where you catch your breath and gather resolve. The final section is a true statement of control and endurance—turning the lip of the overhang on solid, well-positioned holds that reward thoughtful positioning. The "Thank-God" hold, perched high and to the right above the last bolt, invites a silent hope that the previous climbers have left it in place, a small mercy on an otherwise demanding topout.

The protection layout is straightforward yet requires attentive clipping, especially on the last three bolts, which ideally are linked with long draws to accommodate the roof's reach and reduce rope drag. Approaching ground-up, clipping the final bolt at thigh height is the safest bet for a clean last move and solid anchor setup.

The Croissant Wall location itself offers more than just this brilliant line–British Columbia’s Okanagan is known for its quality granite, dry microclimate, and striking natural contours. The wall faces south-southwest, catching morning sun and offering shade by afternoon, making spring and fall ideal seasons to climb. Approaches are friendly enough but include crossing forested trails that wind through cedar and pine, leaving you attuned to the quiet pulse of the wilderness as you ascend.

Preparation is key: strong fingers, confident footwork, and the mental patience to navigate the crux moves will see climbers rewarding themselves with a satisfying send. Expect variable holds, some sharp edges, and a few cryptic moves that challenge your ability to read the rock. Ground falls near the start advise caution, so a solid spot or attentive belay will ease nerves.

Whether you're aiming to sharpen your sport climbing skills or add a high-quality 5.11 experience to your logbook, Desperation offers an accessible yet richly demanding line framed by the stunning natural beauty of the Okanagan outdoors.

Climber Safety

The start features potentially ground-fall exposed moves; ensure attentive belaying and consider a spotter or soft landing if working the crux. The rock is solid but sharp edges in the crux may cause rope wear—inspect draws regularly. Seasonal weather swings can shift wall conditions quickly, especially after rain.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length82 feet

Local Tips

Clip the last bolt at thigh level when climbing ground-up for safer falls and easier clipping.

Consider the right-side variant after bolt 3 for a slightly more manageable sequence at 5.11b.

Pack long draws to navigate the roof section and prevent rope drag during the final moves.

Plan your climb in spring or fall to avoid heat and enjoy the best shade on the south-facing wall.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11c/d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.11c/d, Desperation strikes a balance between sustained difficulty and technical puzzles. The initial boulder crux introduces a demanding mix of powerful crimps and delicate slopers, with the right-move variation providing a slightly softer approach around 5.11b. This climb will test finger strength and body positioning without overstaying its welcome, making it a solid benchmark within the Okanagan's moderate hard sport offerings.

Gear Requirements

The route is equipped with approximately 8 bolts and finished with a 2-bolt anchor. Climbers should carry long draws, especially for the last three bolts that extend around the roof section to reduce rope drag and improve clip efficiency.

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Tags

boulder crux
roof
technical sequence
sport climbing
Southern exposure
Okanagan granite