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Death in the Afternoon: A Bold Sport Climb on Hemingway Wall

Canmore, Alberta Canada
sidepull crux
sport climbing
single pitch
bow valley
alberta limestone
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Death in the Afternoon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A compact sport climb on Hemingway Wall, Death in the Afternoon offers a balanced blend of accessible climbing and a technical sidepull crux. This 50-foot pitch invites climbers to engage precise technique in stunning Bow Valley surroundings."

Death in the Afternoon: A Bold Sport Climb on Hemingway Wall

Death in the Afternoon stands as a formidable one-pitch sport climb on the rugged Hemingway Wall, tucked within the striking cliffs of Grotto Canyon, Alberta. This route challenges climbers with a compact sequence that demands precision and patience, beginning with approachable moves that lead you to a broad ledge. Here, the rock pauses, inviting a moment of focus before confronting the intricate sidepull crux that tests finger strength and body positioning. The 50-foot vertical line, protected by five bolts, offers a clean and direct path up the rock, requiring technique and mental composure rather than brute force. Surrounding the climb, the limestone rock spreads smooth and solid, shaped by the twists of Bow Valley's evolving landscape.

Approaching Hemingway Wall means entering a world defined by rugged mountain air and the steady hum of Bow Valley’s river below. The canyon’s walls rise sharply, creating a spacious amphitheater that catches warm sunlight in the morning, ideal for early ascents before afternoon shadows deepen. The exposed face and clear bolts invite climbers to move efficiently, while the crux’s sidepull holds demand focused effort, reminding climbers that every move counts. After the crux, an easier sequence allows a chance to breathe and appreciate the quiet strength of the rock and the surrounding wilderness.

Getting to this climb requires a short approach hike along rocky, uneven terrain — roughly 15 to 20 minutes from Grotto Canyon parking. The path is straightforward but watch your footing as loose gravel and small scrambles can test your balance. Suitable climbing shoes with solid edging capability are a must, and a light rack focused on quickdraws complements the five-bolt protection well. Given the moderate length, a 60-meter rope is more than enough to handle the ascent and rappelling descent.

For climbers eyeing Death in the Afternoon, timing is a key factor. Early mornings deliver good shade with crisp alpine air, while mid-afternoon sun warms the limestone but can bring fleeting gusts through the canyon, adding a brisk freshness to your grip challenge. Seasonal timing leans toward late spring through early fall to avoid icy holds in shoulder months and maximize dry conditions.

While this route garners a modest star rating reflective of its straightforward protection and toned difficulty level (5.12a), its true appeal lies in testing steady technique amid the raw beauty of Alberta’s Bow Valley cliffs. Those prepared to tackle this route will find a satisfying brief but intense experience combining flowing climbing and a technical crux in a spectacular mountain setting.

Climber Safety

The approach features loose gravel and some uneven footing; take care to avoid slips. On route, the crux holds are small, requiring secure grip and attention to hand placements to avoid falls. The rappel anchor is solid but inspect before descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat but benefit from morning shade on the wall.

Wear climbing shoes with solid edging capability for precise sidepull moves.

Plan your rappel carefully — the two-bolt anchor is straightforward but require attention to rope management.

Stay alert on the approach trail; loose gravel can catch you off guard.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.12a, Death in the Afternoon sits comfortably within the upper-intermediate sport range but presents a technical crux that elevates the challenge without excessive overhang or sustained difficulty. The grade feels accurate, with a distinct pinch and sidepull sequence serving as the route’s defining move. Compared to other nearby climbs, it’s more technical than the easier 5.10s but less endurance-heavy than longer routes in Bow Valley.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by five bolts and concludes on a two-bolt anchor. Climbers should bring quickdraws suited for sport routes and a 60-meter rope for a smooth ascent and rappel.

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Tags

sidepull crux
sport climbing
single pitch
bow valley
alberta limestone