Armadillo Buttress - Early Spring Multi-Pitch Climbing in Alberta's Bow Valley

Canmore, Alberta
multi-pitch
sport climbing
early spring
sunny exposure
accessible approach
Bow Valley
Length: 160 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Bow Valley
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Armadillo Buttress in Alberta’s Bow Valley offers a sun-soaked, accessible multi-pitch climbing experience ideal for early spring outings. With its mellow approach, flat base, and classic routes like Asylum Escape, it’s perfect for climbers looking to build skills in a welcoming alpine canyon."

Armadillo Buttress - Early Spring Multi-Pitch Climbing in Alberta's Bow Valley

Tucked just beyond the narrows and past towering hoodoos in Alberta’s Bow Valley lies Armadillo Buttress, a sunlit crag perfect for early season climbing adventures. At roughly 4,982 feet elevation, this cliff stands not just as a physical landmark but as a refreshing invitation to climbers seeking approachable multi-pitch routes with mellow terrain and a warm early spring welcome. The flat base creates an inviting atmosphere for setting up anchors and savoring views without the stress of precarious ledges. Here, simplicity in approach and quality in routes come together to reward those wanting a day of varied climbing without overly complex logistics.

Reaching Armadillo Buttress is straightforward, enhancing its appeal for climbers eager to skip lengthy treks. Starting from the well-known fork where His, Hers & Grotto Falls converge, you continue 15 minutes beyond to find this gem. The trail passes the narrow slot canyons and iconic hoodoos, guiding you left of the creek to the large cliff face. The terrain is accessible and well-marked, making the approach comfortable and efficient, even with a full rack.

The climbing here offers a modest but meaningful set of multi-pitch routes, each demanding a 70-meter rope and about 14 quickdraws to fully enjoy the climbs on offer. The grades lean toward the 5.10 range, with classic routes like A Fine Place for a Friend (5.10b) offering three-star climbing, and Asylum Escape (5.10d) standing out with a solid 4.5-star rating — a true highlight for climbers honing their multi-pitch skills. Gift Card and Macaroon add diversity to the itinerary, both inviting climbers with slightly varied difficulty and style. None boast extreme difficulty, but all reward focus and technique.

The aspect of Armadillo Buttress ensures it basks in excellent sunlight through the early spring months, making it an ideal escape from winter’s chill and a fine destination before summer heat settles into the valley. The flat base and solid sun exposure make it easy to warm up on lower pitches and then push higher as the day progresses. Weather trends in the Bow Valley indicate drier spells in spring, giving climbers an additional margin for timing their trips wisely.

While the routes are relatively short, the quiet setting and well-protected pitches blend for an experience that feels both intimate and adventurous. Climbers can find a rhythm across the cliff, moving from anchor to anchor with confidence and the freedom to take breaks and enjoy the surrounding wilderness. Whether you’re aiming to sharpen your multi-pitch techniques or simply spend a rewarding day on the rock, Armadillo Buttress offers a practical yet invigorating venue.

Coming prepared is essential — packing a 70-meter rope and sufficient quickdraws is a must, and being mindful of seasonal conditions helps you get the most from your day. Though the routes are not the longest or hardest in the Bow Valley, the sunlit face, easy access, and well-loved classics like Asylum Escape make it a standout. It’s a rewarding climb offering an accessible step into multi-pitch adventure while surrounded by the raw beauty of Alberta’s canyonlands.

In sum, Armadillo Buttress provides a perfect early season climbing destination with solid climbing value, friendly approach, and a welcoming cliff face that fills a niche between cragging and longer alpine ventures. For climbers in southern Alberta aiming for memorable multi-pitch days under favorable conditions, this is a spot to add to your climbing calendar.

Climber Safety

While the cliff is flat at its base, always be cautious of rockfall when shifting ropes or arranging gear at belays. Early spring conditions can still bring slippery patches near the approach, so wear sturdy boots and watch your footing.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length160 feet

Local Tips

Plan your approach timing to avoid afternoon shadows, focusing on mornings and early afternoons during spring.

Start from the His, Hers & Grotto Falls fork and continue 15 minutes past the narrows to reach the cliff.

Wear layered clothing, as temperatures can vary quickly in early spring.

Carry plenty of water and snacks – the flat base makes for an excellent rest area between pitches.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbs at Armadillo Buttress fall mainly in the 5.10b to 5.11a range, with Asylum Escape standing out as the hardest and most celebrated. The ratings here offer a balanced challenge — neither overly stiff nor sandbagged — making it an inviting spot for intermediate climbers looking to solidify multi-pitch skills without overwhelming technical demands. Compared to other Bow Valley crags, Armadillo feels approachable and straightforward, allowing climbers to focus on movement and flow rather than battling overly contrived sequences.

Gear Requirements

Bring a 70 meter rope and at least 14 quickdraws to cover all routes comfortably. The climbs are sport multi-pitch with well-protected bolts offering a safe climbing experience.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

multi-pitch
sport climbing
early spring
sunny exposure
accessible approach
Bow Valley