HomeClimbingDeadheads Delight

Deadheads Delight

Lee Vining, California United States
granite
short climb
sport climbing
top rope
Tuolumne Meadows
single bolt
technical footwork
outdoor granite
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Deadheads Delight
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Deadheads Delight is a focused 50-foot sport climb on Tuolumne’s granite, rewarding precise footwork and steady moves past a single bolt to a solid two-bolt anchor. It’s the perfect route for sharpening skills in a classic Yosemite setting."

Deadheads Delight

Deadheads Delight is a concise yet engaging climb perched on the far right edge of a rugged granite face in Yosemite’s Tuolumne Meadows. This 50-foot sport route demands a measured approach, threading upwards on weathered knobs and subtle nubbins that test balance and footwork more than pure power. Positioned just 50 feet to the right of the more frequented Ace in the Hole, it offers a refreshing change of pace for climbers seeking a straightforward, no-frills experience with a reliable challenge. The climb involves a single bolt placed midway, encouraging climbers to commit carefully to each move as they gain steady ground toward a solid two-bolt anchor at the top—ideal for top-rope setups.

The granite’s coarse surface provides just enough texture beneath fingers and shoes to inspire confidence but also reminds you that focus is key. The route’s modest height makes it an excellent option for warming up or for climbers looking to sharpen their technique on subtle holds without the pressure of multiple pitches. Despite its simplicity, Deadheads Delight carries a sense of rugged authenticity typical of Tuolumne’s wild high country—where granite walls rise sharply against open skies, and the pine-scented air sharpens your senses.

Approaching the cliff is a straightforward hike through Tuolumne Meadows, surrounded by open meadows and scattered lodgepole pines. The trail has gentle inclines, and although it’s accessible, hikers should prepare for elevation around 8,600 feet, where thinner air lends an added dimension to physical effort. Early morning or late afternoon provides the best light and cooler conditions for climbing, avoiding the sun that can bake this face in the heart of the day.

Gear needs are minimal—one well-placed bolt protects the key section, so climbers should bring a reliable quickdraw and set up secure top-rope anchors at the two-bolt station. The protection is sparse, so maintaining control on the crimpy holds between is part of the route’s charm and challenge. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential to make the most of the small footholds, and a steady approach will reward your efforts. Dry weather and stable rock make this route appealing year-round, although snow and rain can quickly change conditions.

Deadheads Delight is a practical choice for climbers seeking a taste of Yosemite’s granite without the complexity of longer climbs. It blends enough technical intrigue with a clear path and dependable protection for a focused outing that respects both the rock and your time. Whether on a quick top-rope session or a gentle introduction to the area’s character, this route invites climbers to find flow in simplicity and precision.

Climber Safety

Limited protection means falls could be serious; climbers should have solid comfort climbing above a single bolt and manage risks accordingly. The rock is solid, but weather changes quickly at high elevation, so check forecasts before heading out.

Route Details

TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to avoid the midday heat baking the granite face.

Wear sticky rubber shoes to maximize grip on small knobs and nubs.

Carry a short quickdraw and personal anchor slings for efficient top-rope setup.

Plan for thinner air at elevation; hydrate well before and during the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R rating indicates that while the technical moves are manageable, the runout after the single bolt adds a degree of mental challenge, requiring climbers to trust their footwork and hold processing. Compared to nearby routes like Ace in the Hole, Deadheads Delight feels more streamlined and less juggy, demanding cleaner movement rather than raw strength.

Gear Requirements

One bolt protection placed around halfway up, finishing at a two-bolt anchor. Best climbed on top rope but can be led with attention to the runout between gear placements.

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Tags

granite
short climb
sport climbing
top rope
Tuolumne Meadows
single bolt
technical footwork
outdoor granite