"Dead President offers 75 feet of solid trad climbing on a clean flake and corner in Rough Canyon. Ideal for climbers looking to hone crack skills with easy approach and no fixed anchor to worry about."
Dead President stands as a straightforward but rewarding 75-foot trad climb within the rugged confines of Rough Canyon, a lesser-known gem just outside Grand Junction, Colorado. This route presents a clean flake and corner system that tests solid footwork and basic crack skills, making it accessible to climbers stepping into the 5.9 trad arena or those seeking a no-fuss multi-pitch to sharpen their leader confidence. The rock is firm with subtle texture, offering reliable placements but demanding attention to precise gear sizing—extra hand-size cams will be your best allies here.
The approach is a short, manageable walk that threads through open scrubland and stratified sandstone formations, making navigation simple and leaving energy in reserve for the climb itself. The corner’s angle is friendly, neither an overhanging fight nor a flat vertical wall, balancing technical moves with steady, flowing climbing. At the top, climbers are greeted by an uncluttered view of the surrounding canyons and distant mesas, a quiet reminder of Colorado’s rugged backcountry character.
No fixed anchors mark the summit, requiring a traditional setup on natural gear. This adds a practical layer to the experience, rewarding those confident in anchor building and self-sufficiency. Descending is an easy walk-off, avoiding any rappel setup and leading directly back to your vehicle without complications. The route’s clear exposure and moderate pitch length make it a solid half-day adventure for climbers of mixed experience looking for quality movement without the crowds.
Plan your outing during morning or late afternoon hours to avoid the harsh midday sun, especially in warmer months when the canyon’s heat can build. Bring plenty of water and wear sticky shoes geared for crack work. While the climb rates 5.9, it leans toward the approachable side of this grade, with steady sequences rather than demanding cruxes, making it a practical choice for trad climbers aiming to push their limits with minimal risk. Those seeking to immerse themselves in a quiet part of the Grand Junction climbing scene will find both the route and its setting refreshingly straightforward but undeniably engaging.
Lack of fixed anchors means you must be proficient at building secure traditional anchors. Loose rock near the base also requires careful foot placement during approach and descent.
Approach is short and straightforward but expect some loose rocks near the base.
No fixed anchors at the top – pack slings and cordelette for building your own.
Climb in cooler morning or late afternoon hours to avoid intense sun exposure.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for crack climbing to maximize grip on corners.
Bring a standard traditional rack with an emphasis on hand-sized cams; gear placements require solid judgment for secure protection.
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