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Dastardly Rascal: A Classic Trad Climb on Razor Back in Yosemite

Tuolumne Meadows, California United States
trad
multi-pitch
granite slab
roof moves
Yosemite
Tuolumne Meadows
Length: 420 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Dastardly Rascal
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dastardly Rascal offers an approachable yet engaging three-pitch trad climb atop Yosemite’s Razor Back. With textured granite slabs and crack systems, this route blends moderate grades and solid protection perfect for refining trad skills while enjoying sweeping meadow views."

Dastardly Rascal: A Classic Trad Climb on Razor Back in Yosemite

Dastardly Rascal offers an engaging multi-pitch trad climb that traces a compelling line along the Razor Back ridge in Yosemite’s Tuolumne Meadows. Spanning 420 feet over three pitches, this route weaves through a combination of friction slabs, delicate face climbing, and slightly exposed sections that keep every move interesting but approachable. The climb begins with a textured slab peppered with bolts, guiding you to a small ledge that hints at the sustained effort ahead. From there, the route meanders upward, with warm canyon winds brushing against your back and the granite cliffs rising like silent partners challenging your technique.

The first pitch sets the tone with a series of friction moves climbing past three bolts, culminating at a small left-angled ledge. Climbers will find themselves traversing this ledge before moving past two additional bolts, negotiating a roof protected by gear. This section demands steady footwork and a loose feel for upward progress, rewarding with clean granite holds and pockets. The pitch concludes at a bolt anchor, offering a moment to catch your breath and prepare for the continuation.

Pitch two leans into moderate smearing, combining face holds and cracks that require confident foot placement and patience. After ascending 12 to 15 feet past the belay, climbers encounter a series of bolts that gently guide them toward a distinctive circular flake, perfect for well-placed protection. From this point, the route trends left and enters a large, right-facing corner where solid gear placements are essential. The corner finishes on a comfortable ledge with a two-bolt anchor, marking the end of the second pitch at around 120 feet.

The final pitch demands careful navigation up and right to clip bolts guarding a small roof. This section mixes delicate face holds and knob climbs leading to a slightly dirty ramp trending right. After following the ramp, the route crosses a cleaner face with bolts protecting the way before finishing with more face climbing and a mantle move onto the summit ledge of Razor Back. This anchor provides sweeping views across Tuolumne Meadows—a perfect backdrop to reflect on the climb’s rewarding challenges.

The route carries a 5.9 PG13 rating, blending technical moves that never stray too far from reliable protection with sections of moderate climbing that keep the flow steady. It’s an ideal choice for intermediate climbers wanting to push their trad skills in a classic Yosemite setting without venturing into serious runout territory.

To enjoy Dastardly Rascal fully, prepare for variable granite textures and occasional dusty spots on the ramp, which can affect footing. Draws with longer runners are a must to reduce rope drag, especially on traverses and around flares. Camalots in sizes 0.5, 1, and 2 are essential to protect key placements efficiently.

Approaching Razor Back involves a manageable hike through open meadows and pine groves, with a well-marked trail that takes about 30 minutes from the main Tuolumne Meadows parking area. The granite exposures warm quickly, making late spring through early fall the best window to ascend when the weather is stable and dry. Early morning starts are recommended to avoid afternoon heat and potential thunderstorms common in summer.

Descent is straightforward with a relaxing hike off the east side of Razor Back, but climbers should remain mindful of loose rocks and avoid lingering on exposed ledges. Whether you’re summiting for the views or savoring the moves along granite featured with classic Tuolumne texture, Dastardly Rascal stands out as a route that balances challenge and fun with a distinctive Yosemite character.

Climber Safety

While no serious runouts exist, many sections place gear above bolts, so wind runners carefully to avoid rope drag. Focus on clean footwork over friction slabs where rock can be smooth or dusty. Loose debris on the final ramp requires vigilance, especially if conditions are damp.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length420 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and potential summer storms.

Use longer runners on bolts to prevent rope drag around flares and traverses.

Check cam sizes carefully; 0.5, 1, and 2 Camalots cover the main gear needs.

Approach trail from Tuolumne Meadows is well-marked, expect 30 minutes of moderate hiking.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 PG13, Dastardly Rascal features mostly moderate climbing that feels true to grade. The cruxes are sustained but well protected, with a mix of 5.7 and 5.8 climbing preceding the more technical 5.9 corner on pitch two. Compared to other Tuolumne classics at similar grades, this route offers a fair balance of friction slab and face climbing with protection that lowers the risk factor.

Gear Requirements

Bring draws including longer runners to reduce rope drag on traverses. Essential cam placements range from 0.5 to 2 Camalots or equivalents to protect key sections, especially in corners and roof placements.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
granite slab
roof moves
Yosemite
Tuolumne Meadows