HomeClimbingCrystal Meth

Crystal Meth: A Classic Trad Route on Drug Dome

Lee Vining, California United States
flake system
classic trad
multi-pitch
rappel descent
loose rock caution
roof crack
Tuolumne Meadows
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Crystal Meth
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Crystal Meth rises up Drug Dome with three pitches of solid 5.8 trad climbing, challenging you with flakes, crimps, and a short roof sequence. A classic Yosemite route that blends accessible protection with scenic granite exposure, it’s a must for trad climbers exploring Tuolumne Meadows."

Crystal Meth: A Classic Trad Route on Drug Dome

Crystal Meth on Drug Dome offers a raw, classic trad experience that balances solid climbing with subtle challenges across three pitches. Starting with an inviting flake system, the route quickly demands focus as you clip a lone bolt roughly 25 feet up, then navigate upward and right to reach a two-bolt anchor after 80 feet at 5.8 difficulty. This first pitch teases you with straightforward crack moves that reward good footwork and route reading. The second pitch shifts direction—clip a bolt, then move left before veering right along a right-facing flake system. This section stretches out for about 110 feet, keeping the 5.8 grade honest with a loose block near the top that calls for extra caution. The final pitch introduces a short but engaging roof requiring a mix of delicate balance on small knobs and crimps, culminating in a bolt clip on the roof’s left side before finishing with an enjoyable mantle and slab to another two-bolt anchor. Although Pitch 4 is more akin to a 4th class scramble leading to the tree line, it serves as access to nearby lines like Hobbit Book, broadening your options on Mariuolumne Dome.

Protection is straightforward but essential: bring two quickdraws for the bolts, plus micro nuts and cams up to 3 inches to secure tricky gear placements, especially on the more flake-heavy sections. The anchors are solid, two-bolt setups with rappel rings, allowing a single 70-meter rope to rappel the route efficiently. The rock here demands respect—careful foot placements and vigilant assessment of loose blocks keep your climb safe and smooth. Given its location in the expansive wilderness of Tuolumne Meadows within Yosemite National Park, expect a landscape marked by broad granite domes that watch silently as you ascend, with cool forest edges bordering the approach and summit.

Your approach to Drug Dome begins from well-marked trails within Tuolumne Meadows. The path is moderate, weaving through shaded forest patches before opening to the dome’s base, about a 20-minute hike. The granite here catches the sun mid-morning, so early starts help beat the heat in summer, while cooler seasons offer crisp air and fewer crowds. After your climb, the descent involves a straightforward single rope rappel from the anchors down back to the ground, followed by a quick hike back to the trailhead.

Whether you’re honing your crack climbing skills or seeking a solid multi-pitch adventure that rewards straightforward protection and steady climbing, Crystal Meth demands attention to detail, cautious movement around loose rock, and readiness for varied terrain. It suits trad climbers stepping up in the Yosemite high country scene, offering classic exposure and friendly grade progression in one of the park’s less crowded climbing corners.

Climber Safety

Watch closely for loose blocks near the top of pitch 2 and on the right side of the roof on pitch 3. Helmets are recommended due to potential falling debris. The granite can be sharp, so caution on foot placements reduces risk of slips. Avoid climbing after heavy rain as the rock becomes slick and unstable.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday sun on the granite walls.

Inspect flakes carefully at the top of pitch 2; loose blocks can shift.

Bring micro cams for tricky placements on the roof pitch.

Plan for a straightforward rappel with a 70m rope from the anchors.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8 PG13, Crystal Meth feels balanced with consistent moves and manageable protection. The PG13 rating hints at some runout sections that require focus, especially around the loose flake area on pitch 2. The roof sequence adds a brief but punchy technical crux that demands steady feet and confidence on small holds. Compared to similar routes in Tuolumne Meadows, it’s a solid choice for advancing trad skills with moderate exposure.

Gear Requirements

2 quickdraws for bolts, micro nuts and cams up to 3 inches for protecting flakes and cracks, two-bolt anchors with rappel rings for efficient descent. A single 70m rope is sufficient for rappels.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Crystal Meth and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

flake system
classic trad
multi-pitch
rappel descent
loose rock caution
roof crack
Tuolumne Meadows