"A solid four-pitch trad climb on Lembert Dome’s Northwest Face, Crying Time Again blends technical knob pulling with strategic bolt placements. Climbers can expect sustained moves and a choice of challenging final pitches in Yosemite’s high alpine environment."
Crying Time Again carves a compelling line up Lembert Dome’s rugged Northwest Face, blending technical trad climbing with occasional bolts that keep the route lively without tipping into sport territory. This four-pitch climb demands sharp focus and a well-tuned rack, offering a compelling mix of knob pulls and thin face moves that reward well-practiced technique and steady nerves. The granite here is unapologetically solid, with edges and knobs that challenge your grip and footwork, pushing climbers to engage fully with the rock’s texture.
Approaching from Tuolumne Meadows, the scene is set by crisp mountain air and expansive views that remind you why Yosemite’s high country stands apart. The path to Lembert Dome is well-traveled but requires attention—the moderate hike delivers both calm forest sounds and glimpses of alpine flora broken by the steady wind pushing across the granite slabs. Once on the wall, the route’s character emerges in pockets of sustained climbing interspersed with brief rests on ledges or wedged stances.
Though bolts appear sporadically, they do not give the route a sport feel. In fact, their placement can be subtle—expect to hunt for them even when they’re just a few feet ahead. This demands strong route-reading skills and a steady head, especially on the crux pitches. The final pitch offers versatility: a choice between a bold 5.9 R finish with runout sections or a more safeguarded 5.10a line heavily bolted. Whichever you pick, the exposure ramps up and the granite forces precision. The move sequences require clean footwork and deliberate hand placements on solid but sometimes sharp edges.
Protection calls for a light rack: a good selection of quick draws and runners will keep you nimble as you clip and sling knobs. Traditional gear placements can be sparse, so strong trad anchor-building skills come into play. The varied protection style means climbers must be comfortable mixing bolt clipping with careful gear placement under pressure.
Climbing this route in the warmer months is ideal—the early morning sun sets the face aglow, drying the rock and minimizing slick moss patches found during wetter periods. Shade tends to settle in midday on the lower pitches, offering respite from the sun but calling for layered clothing as mountain air cools quickly. Descending involves a straightforward rappel route that requires solid anchors and attention to rope management, especially after the final pitch options.
Crying Time Again stands as a mid-grade challenge on Lembert Dome’s face, rewarding climbers looking to sharpen trad skills with bursts of boldness. It’s a climb that whispers instructions through knobby holds and granite edges, pushing you to meld clean technique with strategic protection choices. Whether you seek to refine your trad proficiency or take in the raw landscape of Yosemite’s high country, this route offers a compelling adventure grounded in both effort and landscape.
Bolt placements are sparse and sometimes difficult to spot, requiring sharp attention during clipping. The runout finish option has limited ledges—overconfidence here risks serious falls. Weather can change rapidly in Tuolumne Meadows, so prepare for cool temps and possible wet granite on shady pitches.
Approach early to catch the warming morning sun and dry granite.
Bring a light rack emphasizing quick draws and runners for clipping bolts and knobs.
Scope out bolts carefully; they can be concealed or hard to spot in sunlight.
Choose your final pitch finish based on comfort with runout climbing vs. bolted safety.
A light rack is sufficient, focusing on quick draws and runners to clip the occasional bolts and sling knobs. Traditional protection placements are limited but critical—be prepared for precise gear placement on small edges and cracks.
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