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Crimes Against Rock: A Bold Trad Line on Murphy's Dome South Face

Deckers, Colorado United States
finger crack
dirt pockets
bolt protection
runout finish
morning shade
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Crimes Against Rock
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Crimes Against Rock presents an engaging single-pitch trad challenge on Murphy's Dome South Face. Coupling hands-on gear placements with a gritty, intersecting crack system, this line offers adventurous climbers an opportunity to navigate a lesser-known but compelling route in Colorado’s South Platte."

Crimes Against Rock: A Bold Trad Line on Murphy's Dome South Face

Crimes Against Rock carves a distinct path up Murphy's Dome South Face, inviting climbers into a raw and rugged section of Colorado's South Platte. This single-pitch, 120-foot trad route threads through a sequence of cracks that intersect with several established climbs, demanding both sharp route-finding and steady gear placement. The ascent begins by sharing terrain with the well-known Unknown 5.9 before veering rightward, crossing Pork Meadows and The King & Eye, all the while edging toward the upper reaches of Chris & Pete's Wake Up Call. Although the line is clear on the rock, its somewhat neglected state means the crack retains patches of dirt and debris between segments—adding an earthy, untamed character to the climb.

The rock here is typical of the South Platte granite: solid but textured, offering good holds alongside challenging sections where the crack narrows and demands precise finger jams. Gear placements play a critical role, especially early where a #4 Black Diamond micro nut can be a lifesaver near the first bolt. As the crack loosens before clipping the bolt on The King & Eye, climbers must muster focus to traverse steadily onto easier ground, finishing with a run-out to a two-bolt anchor concealed up and left near a large tree.

Beyond the physical challenge, the approach offers a quiet communion with this layered rock face, framed by the expansive Colorado outdoors. Sound carries lightly on the breeze, punctuated only by soft rockfall or the occasional rustle in the nearby forested ridgeline. Timing this climb in the morning hours rewards climbers with shade over the rock, tempering the sun’s intensity and enhancing grip.

Prudent preparation is key: climbers should bring a well-rounded rack including medium aliens and cams from #0.5 to #4, nuts, and quickdraws for the bolted sections. Careful cleaning of loose debris en route will help maintain security, and wearing dependable approach shoes is advisable for the variable scrub on the trailhead. Descending is straightforward though not trivial; a single 120-foot rappel or a two-stage rappel with an anchored bolt below leads safely back to solid ground.

For those eager to add a somewhat unsung, gritty outing to their South Platte roster, Crimes Against Rock blends adventure with technical trad demands. It offers a glimpse into the complex network of lines on Murphy's Dome and rewards climbers who relish reconciling bold moves with smart protection strategies.

Climber Safety

The crack contains patches of dirt and loose debris that can affect gear placements—careful cleaning is advised. The runout traverse near the top requires confident footing and deliberate clipping. Be mindful of rock conditions after wet weather as some sections may feel slick.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Begin early to take advantage of morning shade on the south-facing wall.

Brush and clean loose dirt from the crack before placing gear for added security.

Bring a complete rack including medium and large cams, plus multiple micro nuts.

Plan for a 120-foot rappel or an alternate two-part rappel descending to the ground.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 PG13 rating is on the edge of the traditional 5.8 difficulty spectrum, with a crux involving a somewhat runout traverse that increases the mental challenge. The gear placements are straightforward but demand timely placements, particularly through the variable crack sections. This climb falls in line with other South Platte classics that blend moderate technical difficulty with bold protection sequences.

Gear Requirements

Two quickdraws are essential for clipping the bolts encountered on traverses with solid trad gear ranging from #0.5 to #4 Camalots, complemented by micro nuts and aliens. A #4 Black Diamond micro nut is particularly helpful early on, with careful placement required through the crack sections.

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Tags

finger crack
dirt pockets
bolt protection
runout finish
morning shade