"Cracked Towers rises above the swampy flats of Owens River Gorge, offering a compelling mix of slab and wall climbs. With classic routes like Superfly and Wooly Bugger anchoring the area, this granite stronghold balances adventure with a manageable approach and vital access considerations."
In the heart of California’s Owens River Gorge lies Cracked Towers, a pair of rugged monoliths standing sentinel over a swampy basin below. These distinctive granite towers present climbers with a raw, tactile experience framed by an unyielding pink slab on the left and a bold, textured tower on the right. Although overshadowed in prominence by the massive wall looming above, the Cracked Towers embody a unique climbing character that rewards those willing to navigate the approach and embrace the adventure.
The approach to these towering formations starts at the upper trailhead. From here, the recommended path veers left, tracing the talus slope on the climber’s left until you reach a distinctive telephone pole chained above the swamp. This landmark marks your arrival to the base of the climbs. The walk-in skirts through uneven terrain and requires attentive footwork, so allow ample time to reach the base while staying mindful of the wet ground below.
Climbers are drawn here not only by the features underfoot but also the climbs themselves. The area’s classic routes stand as testaments to the gorge’s gripping granite and diversified climbing style. Among them, "Superfly" asserts itself as a benchmark route with a 5.10c difficulty that tests skill and nerve, while "Wooly Bugger," at 5.12c, offers a challenging extension for climbers ready to push their limits. Other favorites like "Silence of the Poodles" (5.9) and "M.O." (5.9) serve as approachable yet satisfying climbs that provide a solid introduction to the cracked walls and technical slab climbing present here. The blend of easier moderate routes and steeper, more demanding lines ensures the area caters to a variety of skill levels.
Situated at about 5,710 feet elevation, Cracked Towers enjoys a climate that fluctuates seasonally, making spring through fall the prime climbing window. Daily weather can swing from warm sun to clouds, and intermittent precipitation calls for a close watch on forecasts before venturing out. The gorge’s orientation favors morning sun on the towers but also provides shade as the day progresses—ideal for lingering on routes after initial warming.
Despite its appeal, climbers must approach Cracked Towers with a strong respect for local access issues. The Owens River Gorge is currently undergoing access challenges due to bridge removals requested by LADWP, tied to liability negotiations. While these matters are under resolution, it’s critical to honor closed crossings and seek alternate safe routes. Practicing stewardship — avoiding overnight camping at access points, parking responsibly off pavement, cleaning up gear and pet waste, and utilizing outhouses — is vital for maintaining the area’s future availability.
Protection on these routes is predominantly gear-based with a need for a traditional rack, as bolts are limited. The granite shapes demand precise placements and confidence in gear management, especially on longer pitches. Though detailed beta remains limited, be prepared for both slab friction moves and crack jams, with some climbs offering sustained sequences that test endurance and technique equally.
Descent options typically involve walking down from the base rather than rappelling, but attention on footing remains crucial given the talus and swampy vicinity. Carrying essential navigation tools and being prepared for a marked but sometimes uneven trail ensures a smoother transition back to the trailhead.
For any climber seeking to experience the raw spirit of Owens River Gorge outside the shadow of its towering walls, Cracked Towers offers a grounded yet electrifying expedition. Whether you’re tuning your slab skills or chasing high-end classic climbs, the balance of approach, ethics, and climbing quality here delivers a compelling gateway to California’s Eastern Sierra rock.
Classic climbs here to note include Silence of the Poodles, M.O., My Favorite Animal is a Liger, Superfly, Swat Team, And Monkeys Might Fly Out My Butt, and Wooly Bugger. Each route carries its own demanding personality and fits squarely into the rugged, hand-crafted style of the Gorge. Pack smart, respect access, and prepare to immerse yourself in the granular challenge of Cracked Towers.
Be cautious approaching the base due to swampy terrain and uneven footing near talus slopes. Also, heed bridge closures and avoid crossing unsafe or closed areas. Rock quality is solid but slab sections require focused footwork; watch for loose debris around approach trails.
Use the left trail from the upper approach to skirt the talus slope and reach the telephone pole landmark above the swamp.
Respect bridge closures and stay updated on LADWP negotiations affecting access to Owens River Gorge.
Avoid overnight camping or parking at access points; always park off pavement without blocking gates.
Pack out all trash and dog waste to maintain the area’s fragile environment.
The climbs at Cracked Towers require a solid traditional rack due to limited fixed protection. Prepare for a mix of crack placements and slab friction climbing, with some longer pitches demanding endurance. Use gear appropriate for typical granite features, and bring enough to handle multi-pitch routes.
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