"Coyote's Tooth stands as a compact trad challenge on a detached flake just left of Turtle Lake’s central wall. At 30 feet, this single pitch offers precise gear placements and a memorable bolt anchor, perfect for climbers seeking a solid introduction to Durango’s trad routes."
Perched left of the main wall at Turtle Lake, the Coyote's Tooth offers a compact yet rewarding trad climbing experience in Colorado’s rugged Durango region. This single-pitch route is defined by a striking detached flake that challenges climbers to navigate its right edge with precision and control. The climb begins at the base of this jutting feature, where a bolt marks the starting point before you move upward along the flake’s clean line. As you ascend, the rock speaks under your fingertips—the texture sharp and solid, demanding thoughtful gear placements and steady footwork. The single bolt anchors you near the top, giving safe belay options and the opportunity for top-rope ascents on two adjacent routes, including the more formidable West Arete and North Face lines.
Beyond the immediate challenge, the route’s location rewards with panoramic views of the Durango highlands, where pine-laden slopes stretch toward distant mesas. The air here carries the dry coolness characteristic of Colorado's mountain landscapes, punctuated by the occasional rustle of forest life and the whisper of wind between the flake and wall.
Approaching Coyote’s Tooth requires a short trek through mixed terrain, with a clearly marked path leading climbers to the cliff base. Planning your climb during late spring through early fall ensures the most stable conditions—dry rock and favorable temperatures—while avoiding the intense midday sun due to the wall’s orientation, which provides intermittent shade.
Protection is straightforward but demands attention; the bolt secures the start, but gear placements along the flake's edge are essential for safety. Climbers should bring a standard trad rack focused on small to medium cams and nuts, prepared for the subtle variations in crack width. The route's 30 feet length makes it a perfect introduction to trad climbing on this wall, with the nearby top-rope options offering routes for climbers ready to push into higher difficulties.
For those seeking a balanced adventure, Coyote’s Tooth combines a crisp, manageable challenge with a scenic, accessible setting. It’s a climb that invites both reflection and active engagement, perfect for a day outing in Durango's climbing scene.
While the bolt anchors the start and top anchor securely, care is needed with gear placements on the flake’s edge, which can vary in width and demand precise sizing. Loose rock at the trailhead can pose slipping hazards, so sturdy footwear is recommended.
Approach via the well-marked trail on Turtle Lake’s north side; expect mixed terrain with some loose rock.
Best climbed from late spring to early fall to ensure dry rock and comfortable temperatures.
Bring a standard trad rack emphasizing small to medium-sized pro for secure placements along the flake.
Consider climbing early or late in the day to benefit from partial shade and avoid peak sun exposure.
The route is bolted at the start with a secure anchor at the top. A trad rack focused on small to medium cams and nuts will help manage trickier placements along the flake's right edge.
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