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Coyote Ugly at Pinnacles National Park: A Single-Pitch Trad Adventure

Soledad, California United States
trad
5.9 crack
single-pitch
bolted anchor
variable rock
chaparral views
easy rappel
Length: 150 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Coyote Ugly
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Coyote Ugly delivers a focused 150-foot trad climb blending variable rock challenges with sweeping views at Pinnacles National Park. Perfect for climbers who appreciate technical placements and a solid rappel anchor to finish strong."

Coyote Ugly at Pinnacles National Park: A Single-Pitch Trad Adventure

Coyote Ugly offers a compact yet thrilling 150-foot single-pitch climb that challenges both your technical skill and mental focus against Pinnacles National Park’s rugged backdrop. Beginning near Tiburcio’s X on the park’s eastern flank, this trad route carves a line through an intriguing mix of rock quality—exploring the gritty reality of loose stone low down before moving into a narrow crack with poor placements, and culminating in a stretch of solid, reassuring rock near the top. The landscape around embraces you in dry, sunbaked terrain peppered with chaparral and sweeping views of the Central Coast’s vast, open hills. From the base, the faint scent of sagebrush drifts on a warm breeze, while the call of distant scrub jays punctuates the quiet tension of the climb.

Despite the variable rock, Coyote Ugly’s challenge lies in navigating the shifting grip and uncertain gear placements, testing your ability to read the rock and place protection with care. The 5.9 difficulty feels earned here, with a crux that demands steady footwork and confident hand jams in a narrowing crack section. Beyond the technical demands, the climb also rewards with an excellent bolted anchor set firmly at the top, fitted with rings for a controlled rappel descent.

Getting here involves a moderate approach along dusty trails that wind through prime chaparral country, worn smooth by countless footsteps but marked clearly on park maps. The area’s remoteness invites reflection—the silence around the rock is broken only by the occasional rustle of dry leaves and shifting stones underfoot. While the rock near the base requires cautious movement and a practiced eye to avoid loose holds, the ascent offers crisp, clean exposures under an open sky, ensuring that your efforts are met with sprawling views over the eastern wilderness.

This climb suits trad climbers who thrive on carefully reading their route and adapting placements on varied rock. Medium to large cams up to 3 inches provide secure options along the crack system, while the six fixed wedge bolts offer reliable backup in select zones. Pairing practical gear with patience on the looser rock sections will definitely improve your success rate here. Plan for early morning or late afternoon climbs to avoid peak heat and take advantage of shifting shadows that soften the sun’s intensity.

The descent is straightforward—a reassuring rappel from the bolted anchors deposits you safely at the base. This route slots perfectly into a day of exploring Pinnacles’ diverse climbing portfolio, ideal for those who appreciate a focused, hands-on trad climb framed by the expansive California chaparral environment. Whether you’re polishing gear skills or pushing through a local 5.9 test, Coyote Ugly provides an accessible but unflinching dose of adventure wrapped in classic coastal wilderness.

Climber Safety

Loose rock near the base and along the initial crack requires deliberate movement and careful gear placement to avoid dislodging holds. Always test your placements thoroughly before committing your weight.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid intense midday sun on exposed rock sections.

Double-check all gear placements, especially in loose lower areas.

Carry plenty of water—this area is dry and heat can escalate quickly.

Use gloves or tape to protect your hands on sharp crack edges.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Coyote Ugly feels justifiable given the shift from loose to solid rock and the technical crack sequence mid-route. The crux lies in the proper foot and hand jams after negotiating unstable sections below, making this climb a worthy challenge without being overly stiff. Compared to other local trad routes, it’s approachable but demands attentive gear work.

Gear Requirements

Six fixed wedge bolts guide portions of the climb, but your rack needs to shine with medium to 3-inch cams for the crack. Expect delicate placements in loose rock sections low on the route, and secure gear higher up where rock quality improves.

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Tags

trad
5.9 crack
single-pitch
bolted anchor
variable rock
chaparral views
easy rappel