West Face Pinnacles - Historic Routes and Afternoon Sun Climbs

Hollister, CA, California
sport climbing
afternoon sun
historic routes
raptor closures
Pinnacles NP
technical
single pitch
steep
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Pinnacles National Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The West Face at Pinnacles National Park offers challenging, historic climbs on quality rock with afternoon sun exposure. Known for routes like Ranger Bolts and West of the Sun, this area demands technical skill and respects seasonal wildlife closures."

West Face Pinnacles - Historic Routes and Afternoon Sun Climbs

The West Face of the Monolith in Pinnacles National Park is a compelling destination for climbers seeking challenging, historic routes on solid rock within a striking natural setting. Situated at an elevation of around 1,693 feet, this face offers routes that see sun exposure primarily in the late afternoons, making it a perfect spot for those who prefer to climb away from the midday heat and enjoy the softer glow of the evening light. The rock quality here is consistently good, providing a confident grip whether you are tackling hard sport climbs or classic standbys like Ranger Bolts (also known as Move Over Rover) or West of the Sun. These climbs present formidable challenges in the 5.13a to 5.14a range, drawing seasoned climbers looking to push their limits in an environment that rewards technical skill and mental focus.

Getting to the West Face is an adventure in itself. Begin at the upper east side parking lot and embark on the Moses Spring Trail for an easy but scenic 0.7-mile hike. The trail climbs steadily through forested sections and rocky outcrops until reaching a junction that offers views of both the north and west faces of the Monolith. From there, a brief scramble around the ridge leads you to the base of the West Face routes. This approach is straightforward yet requires careful footing and a bit of route-finding skill, ensuring that the climb starts the moment you set foot on trail.

While Pinnacles National Park offers a stunning backdrop and a climber’s playground, it's essential to be aware of seasonal restrictions. The area is subject to raptor nesting closures, particularly for California condors, which means some sections—including portions of the Machete Ridge area and popular climbs around Crowley Towers and Yaks Wall—may be closed from shortly after Martin Luther King Day through early July. Staying informed through official park resources is critical to protect these birds and avoid surprises. With three active condor nests as of July 2024, respect for wildlife and adherence to closures is a responsibility every visitor shares.

The climbing style on the West Face tends toward steep sport routes demanding strength and precision, with protection typically established via bolts. Due to the harder grades and technical nature, expect a physical and mentally engaging experience. Routes like Ranger Bolts (Move Over Rover) and West of the Sun promise sustained sequences that test endurance and finger strength.

Aside from the climbing itself, the area offers a quiet intimacy compared to more crowded parts of the park. The afternoon sun bathes the wall in warm light, creating shifting shadows over the textured rock, and the surrounding wilderness presents occasional glimpses of the diverse local wildlife. Whether you’re gearing up for a rung-by-rung ascent or relaxing at the base watching others take on these classic climbs, the West Face invites a unique balance of challenge and calm.

Be prepared for the descent and approach terrain, which involves a careful scramble and trail navigation. Plan your day with awareness of the weather; Pinnacles experiences some seasonal precipitation but generally offers prime climbing from spring through fall. Check current conditions before your visit, especially regarding wildlife closures, to make the most of your experience.

In essence, climbers who seek intense sport routes blended with a sense of history and connection to one of California’s treasured national parks will find the West Face an exhilarating destination. The combination of rock quality, variety of challenging routes, and the park’s conservation efforts ensures that every ascent here is not only a test of skill but also a chance to engage respectfully with a wild, living landscape.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of seasonal raptor closures that prohibit climbing in certain areas, particularly to protect condor nests. The approach scramble involves loose rock sections that require careful foot placement. Carry enough water and plan your hike to avoid afternoon heat spikes outside the shaded wall periods.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs in the afternoon to avoid intense midday sun.

Always check current raptor closure updates; many routes close from mid January to early July.

Use the upper east side parking lot for best access to the Moses Spring Trailhead.

Bring a headlamp if planning late climbs since sun sets early on this face.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbing grades here range from 5.13a to 5.14a, reflecting a demanding level of difficulty. These routes maintain a reputation for being stiff and physical, favoring strong finger strength and endurance. Unlike some California sport areas with soft grades, West Face routes typically feel true to their ratings and require solid locking-off moves and precision. If you are accustomed to techy sport crags like Bishop or Joshua Tree’s harder faces, you will find a familiar challenge here.

Gear Requirements

Approach is a 0.7-mile hike along the Moses Spring Trail from the upper east side parking area, followed by a short scramble to access the climbs. Routes are sport protected with bolts, requiring standard sport climbing gear. Check for seasonal raptor closures prior to visiting.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

sport climbing
afternoon sun
historic routes
raptor closures
Pinnacles NP
technical
single pitch
steep