HomeClimbingCowboy Marmot

Cowboy Marmot: Classic Trad Climbing in Tuolumne Meadows

Lee Vining, California United States
trad
multi-pitch
granite
Yosemite
patina
corner crack
bolted
moderate
scramble
Length: 500 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Cowboy Marmot
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cowboy Marmot offers a memorable trad experience on Marmot Dome’s granite face, blending moderate grades and varied terrain. With five pitches of engaging climbing and reliable protection, it’s a must-do for those seeking a balanced Yosemite adventure."

Cowboy Marmot: Classic Trad Climbing in Tuolumne Meadows

Cowboy Marmot stretches up Marmot Dome like a steady invitation to explore one of Yosemite National Park’s distinctive trad lines. Situated in the expansive granite playground of Tuolumne Meadows, this route offers five pitches of engaging climbing that balances moderate grades with striking natural features—perfect for climbers who appreciate both technique and the unique granite textures the area is famed for. From the first step onto the right-facing corner, the rock commands your attention. It’s solid, clean, and boasts subtle patina cracks that prize delicate finger placements. As you ascend, the route unfolds through a sequence of well-protected bulges and corners, letting you focus on movement rather than scrambling for gear.

Pitch one introduces you to the climb’s rhythm—an accessible yet fun corner leading to face moves safeguarded by bolts. The granite here feels alive under your hands, cool and slightly rubbed from previous adventurers. Pitch two ups the ante with two bolt-protected 5.7 bulges that challenge your edging skills before guiding you to a spacious roof and the escape of a right-facing corner. These moves underscore the route’s character: straightforward but never dull.

The third pitch is short but memorable, featuring a crisp crack leading to a bolt-protected 5.8 bulge. You'll quickly transition to a face with smooth patina holds that demand precise footwork and balance. By pitch four, the climbing relaxes into easy slab and corner systems that bring you to a sizable ledge adorned with a few stoic trees—nature’s subtle resting spot on the ascent.

For the final push, climbers face a choice: take the more challenging 5.10a bolt-protected face or veer left around a 5.7 corner. Both paths promise a satisfying finish culminating in a scramble to Marmot Dome’s summit, where expansive views reward your effort. Plan on using a single 70-meter rope for efficient rappelling or opt for a southeast walk-off via third-class slabs if you want to soak in more of the surrounding terrain.

Cowboy Marmot shines not only for its varied climbing but also for its practical protection setup, relying mainly on cams ranging from 0.5 to 2.5 inches, enhanced by strategic draws bolted into the rock. This mix ensures a secure ascent while preserving the route’s natural appeal. The approach is manageable, and the area latitude and longitude place it easily within reach of the main Tuolumne Meadows climbing zones, making it a solid choice for a day of adventure.

Prepare for variable weather by choosing clear, stable days during late spring to early fall—when granite is most forgiving and the crowds are lower. Wear shoes with supportive edges, bring enough water to stay hydrated under the sun-dappled open sections, and pack layers to adjust to shifting temperatures on the granite dome. Cowboy Marmot is an accessible classic, offering both seasoned and intermediate climbers a blend of Yosemite’s raw beauty and straightforward, rewarding trad movement.

Climber Safety

While the protection is solid, some ledges and anchors require careful attention on transition zones. The approach and descent involve slabby terrain where footing can be slippery when wet—plan accordingly and avoid climbing in damp conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length500 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday sun on exposed sections.

Bring a single 70m rope for efficient rappelling.

Use sticky-soled shoes with precise edging capabilities.

Plan for a southeast walk-off with some 3rd-class scrambling.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Cowboy Marmot sits comfortably within moderate trad territory, with the crux pitches featuring bolt protection that offers added security. The final pitch’s alternate 5.10a option introduces a bit more technical challenge, but the overall grade is approachable for experienced intermediates. The consistency of the route's difficulty and the well-spaced protection make it feel fair without overstating the effort required.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes cams from 0.5 to 2.5 inches and draws for bolted sections. The route's hardware is quality and thoughtfully spaced, supporting smooth protection placement throughout all pitches.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
granite
Yosemite
patina
corner crack
bolted
moderate
scramble