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Counting Sheep at Hawk Tower: A Crisp Trad Challenge on California’s Shuteye Ridge

Fresno, California United States
trad crack
single pitch
west face
moderate protection
dry climate
morning sun
classic route
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Counting Sheep
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Counting Sheep commands a sharp trad climb along Hawk Tower’s west face, offering precise crack climbing and confident protection placements. This focused 100-foot pitch combines technical skill with the rugged calm of Shuteye Ridge."

Counting Sheep at Hawk Tower: A Crisp Trad Challenge on California’s Shuteye Ridge

Rising sharply along the western face of Hawk Tower, Counting Sheep offers an engaging single-pitch trad climb that commands attention from the moment you set eyes on it. This route, set within the rugged expanse of Shuteye Ridge in the Southern Sierra, is an adventure compacted into a clean 100 feet of vertical terrain. The climb begins at a low-footed start just below a two-bolt anchor midway up the wall, compelling climbers to focus immediately on subtle holds and footholds etched into the granite. From there, the crack systems and knobs test your gear placement skills, urging careful precision rather than brute force.

The approach to Hawk Tower rewards with a brief forested hike weaving through pines and manzanita, mixing soft needle-littered ground with occasional rocky passages. The environment feels alive; oak branches sway with a murmuring that encourages focus, and the faint rush of a distant creek dares you to push further into the wilderness. The approach clock is under thirty minutes from the main trailhead—accessible but remote enough to instill a sense of wilderness.

Gear-wise, expect a straightforward rack: nuts and a variety of cams will be essential to master protection along the cracks and knobs that punctuate the climb. The seven bolts starting from the mid-face anchor assist in securing the final moves, but your survival depends on solid anchor placements throughout the climb. The final two-bolt anchor with chain at the summit promises a confident finish and safe rappel point.

Rated at 5.9, Counting Sheep strikes a balance between moderate technical demands and mental engagement. It isn’t bombproof easy, with a notable crux where precise footwork on small edges converges with careful hand jamming. Climbers familiar with other Shuteye Ridge classics will find its grade adequately representative, perhaps slightly stiff when factoring in protection demands and the exposure sensation. The sun tracks east to west over the wall, making morning ascents ideal before afternoon heat settles in. Fall and spring provide the best conditions, when temperatures support sustained grip and crisp air sharpens focus.

Safety considerations include steady rock quality, though some knobs and edges demand testing before weight commitment. The vicinity’s dry climate can cause skin to dry rapidly; climbers should come prepared with adequate hydration and skin care. Additionally, rappelling requires attention to rope management and anchor checks, especially when descending after summit chill sets in. The presence of fixed hardware reduces route-finding worry but never replaces vigilance.

Counting Sheep stands as a perfect entry point into Shuteye Ridge’s granite offerings—an inviting trad climb that blends straightforward logistics with enough challenge to keep your adrenaline keyed and your gear clinking. It’s a move-by-move exercise in focus and flow, with a climb environment that reminds you nature isn’t passive but an active partner in every ascent. This climb isn’t just a tick on your list; it's a test of precision framed by the quiet grandeur of California’s backcountry.

Climber Safety

Although rock quality is generally dependable, some knobs and edges require a thorough inspection prior to trusting your weight. Also, plan rappels carefully at the top anchor, checking fixed hardware for wear and ensuring clean rope runs to avoid snagging.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the west-facing wall.

Bring a variety of cam sizes for tricky placements.

Test knobs and edges before weighting to prevent slips.

Ensure hydration, as the dry climate quickly depletes fluids.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Counting Sheep sits squarely in the moderate trad range but feels slightly demanding due to the sharp attention needed for gear placement and subtle crux moves. Compared to other Shuteye Ridge climbs, it’s a straightforward entry that still requires solid technique under exposure.

Gear Requirements

A solid rack of nuts and cams is essential for securing the cracks and knobs leading to the 2-bolt mid-face anchor. From there, seven bolts assist the upper section, culminating in a two-bolt anchored top with chain for rappel.

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Tags

trad crack
single pitch
west face
moderate protection
dry climate
morning sun
classic route