HomeClimbingCotton Mouth Cruise

Cotton Mouth Cruise: A Bold Trad Challenge on Crocodile Dome

Fresno,California ,United States
face climb
trad protection
long runout
granite
single pitch
Grade: 5.9 PG13
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cotton Mouth Cruise
Aspect
South Facing

Cotton Mouth Cruise

5.9 PG13, Trad

Fresno

California ,United States

Overview

"Cotton Mouth Cruise offers a crisp, single-pitch test on Crocodile Dome’s smooth granite face. With strategic cam placements breaking up the runout and solid bolts guarding the line, this 5.9 PG13 route balances technical climbing with smart protection for experienced trad climbers."

Cotton Mouth Cruise: A Bold Trad Challenge on Crocodile Dome

Cotton Mouth Cruise stands as a sharp, engaging climb etched into the solid granite of Crocodile Dome’s Big Sleep Area, nestled within California’s Southern Sierra. This single-pitch, 100-foot face climb invites you to lock onto immaculate rock texture that tests your footwork and gear placements. The route opens with a technical sequence requiring reliable 3- to 4-inch cam placements to secure the initial moves, setting the tone for a sustained push toward the summit.

As you ascend, the smooth face demands steady balance and precise edging. The guidebook marks this climb as bolts only, but careful inspection reveals a smart gear placement opportunity near the top — a narrow, hand-sized cam can be slotted to break up the long runout before the anchor. A natural horn formation sits just right of this placement, perfect for slinging and adding a critical safety buffer if the nervousness of the final 30 feet creeps in. This nuanced protection strategy turns what might feel like a serious fall potential into a controlled, manageable risk.

Visually, Crocodile Dome’s sunlit granite shines warmly through the afternoon light, offering an invigorating climb on a face that drinks in every ray. The climb draws a modest crowd — averaging under three stars in popularity — making it an excellent choice for those who want an uninterrupted connection with the rock and a taste of traditional protection responsibility. The moderate PG13 rating signals to climbers that while the moves are solid, respecting the protection gaps is essential for a confident ascent.

Practical prep covers bringing six quickdraws to clip the bolts securely, the crucial cam for the upper runout placement (around 1 to 1.25 inches), and a sling for the horn feature. An optional but wise addition is a large 3- or 4-inch cam for the start, ensuring your first moves are anchored firmly. Footwear with stiff precision and moderate rubber stickiness will reward you here, and timing the climb for mid-morning to late afternoon helps avoid the cooler shadows that settle in early.

Reaching this climb means hiking along Shuteye Ridge with firm but straightforward access, parking within hikers' reach of the base. Keep water handy for the dry California air and be prepared for variable temperatures as the sun crosses the sky. Approaching the route with respect for the natural protection options and an eye for detail on the face will pay dividends both in safety and climbing flow.

Cotton Mouth Cruise offers an authentic California trad experience: a blend of smooth granite movement, intelligent gear challenges, and a quiet setting where focus and technique lead the way. Its route demands clear-headed evaluated risk-taking and rewards with a clean, energized movement on a largely unpopulated wall. This climb is a solid choice for those seeking a straightforward, single-pitch trad test with interesting protection puzzles and tactile granite exposure.

Climber Safety

The upper 30-foot section features a significant runout with limited fixed protection; relying on a well-placed cam and a sling on a horn is crucial to minimize potential falls. Assess gear placements carefully before committing.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9 PG13
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch warm sunlight on the granite face.

Bring a 1" to 1.25" cam to protect the tricky upper runout section.

Use a sling on the top horn to add secure protection before the anchor.

Wear moderate stiffness climbing shoes for precise footwork on polished granite.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 grade sits as a moderate challenge, but the length of runouts near the anchor elevates the perceived risk. The cam placement at the top effectively softens this runout. Climbers familiar with other Southern Sierra climbs will find this grade consistent with the area’s balance of technical face climbing and risk management.

Gear Requirements

Six draws cover the bolt placements, but bring a 1" to 1.25" cam to reduce the upper runout, plus a sling for the horn feature near the top. An optional large 3-4" cam helps secure the start of the climb.

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Tags

face climb
trad protection
long runout
granite
single pitch